I am installing new saddlebags with the throwover belt, but I like to run the belt UNDER my rear seat as opposed to over. The belt interferes with where the rectifier is located about an inch or so, and I am wondering if there is harm in moving the rectifier a little closer (about an inch or two) towards the front so long as it has clearance?  I have previously lifted my seat about 1" front and 1/2" rear so there is a little more room under there now than stock.  I just don't know how warm/hot the rectifier gets and I don't want it rubbing against other stuff under the seat and causing wiring issues or worst case a FIRE.

Thanks!

Thanks, Dave.
Yeah, I can notch out the strap. I believe that sounds like the bestt option based on your info. On my old bags I had about a half inch pinched under the rectifier but the new viking bag belt is way too thick. I was originally going for the full hard mount on these bags but their hard mount kit doesn't really work for the Savage, but I knew that before I ordered them. I will use the belt along with some custom made aluminum strapping secured under the fender like factory saddlebag brackets. The belt will carry most of the weight and the brackets will mainly be to keep the bags properly spaced and steady and off of the rear shocks and belt guard.

Interesting. It looks like they are using pure airflow to dissipate the heat since none is transferred to the battery box via conduction due to the sticky tape and minimal surface areas touching...and iirc the top is plastic. I guess this side mount lets them gat away with it since it is in the direct air versus hidden under the seat.

I have saddle's under my passenger seat, haven't had any issues period!

DesertRat wrote on 04/27/16 at 12:08:35:


Needs both rotor and stator, they arc burned clean through both units. Reg/rec melted. Ignition box melted. Starter is welded together. Wiring harness looks like a modern art nightmare. A power spike that large is invariably a bike killer. No telling what in the engine got welded to what else in the engine.

I could buy another brand new bike for what the parts and my time work out to.

My way:  bolted the rectifier to an aluminum plate, bolted the aluminum plate to the underside of the frame horns where the fender was bolted.  Outta sight, outta mind, no wires cut, no fender. Works fine so far!

Sounds like Marvin the Martian nailed WDs bike with that dang ray gun. You got an EMP blast, WD. I would have to cut out as long of a piece of that harness as I could and hang it up.
I can't envision how that could even happen. I guess you're lucky it didn't just burst into flames while you were going seventy.

Anyone have a theory about how it could even make that kinda power?

I would want to autopsy the engine. Even if stuff escaped actual welding, current running through rotating parts can hurt them.
When I was the fleet maintenance guy for a small company there was a Mack truck that would go through U joints. After replacing a few I realized, that's not normal, and went hunting.
Discovered that the Engine wasn't grounded straight to chassis, so it was going through the drive line. Well, IDK exactly what you call it, Mack set them up so the chassis is hot, not ground.
Why anyone would do such a thing is beyond me.

Had issues with the electrical on the 98 since the day I bought it, brand new, in February 1998.

It started eating batteries in 2007. Went through, on average, a battery every 3-4 months until it was parked in 2010. Just kept swapping them out under warranty.

My 03 had a going great than completely dead battery on the way to work a year and a half ago. Popped both fuses, the same thing the 98 did for the first time when it was 2 months into my ownership.

Looking to get something a bit roomier. Thinking a clean Road Star, LC1500, VN1500. Savage is great for 40mph 3rd gear back roads around here. A bit cramped, still, for longer rides or super slab.