Mmmmkay, I went back and read. You lost the jug / case gasket in a big way. You started seeing real issue After you tightened up the oil fill.

Either something isn't kosher where that gasket sits or the internal pressure is too high or, a bit of both.

Some oil leak hunters have closed off the vent, sprayed soapy water on the engine and put a few PSI in the crankcase.

You might wanna Not block the vent and see if the engine is breathing right.
I'd sure inspect the surfaces that the jug gasket are on.
And how much goo goes on the head cover matters, and what kind, IMO.  Not RTV,,  

I'm not a real stickler for the torque wrenches, I go by feel on about everything,, but jug and head , I would use one.
Head cover, no.. just keep making passes getting tiny bits of a turn, pinching the sealer flatter and flatter until the bolts tell you
Th Th Th That's All, Folks.
You can feel it. Depends on how you hold the wrench, a closed hand is dangerous.

Sounds like you're going at it hard and fast. You might be ahead to slow down.

I have the upper removed from frame and disassembled.  I will be posting my measurements and limits for piston, cylinder, and ring gaps, etc.  Possiby tonight but tomorrow for sure.  
  Also I did not include the fact that I did not muse a torque wrench when installing the double threaded studs the run thru the cylinder.  
  Of course I know it is likely my problem and the answer to my own question.

Drag a fingernail up the cylinder wall and feel for a ridge at the top.
You can rent a tool to put the crosshatch on it.

So,if a Deadman survives the challenge, does he become a zombie, by default?

i believe a zombie to be considered the living dead.   My reward will come  from another 33,000 miles.

From Clymers

 i did use the ring within the cylinder to inspect the cylinder for wear in its center.  I did not detect any difference in the gap measurement, but i did not inspect for irregularities in how  closely  the ring met the cylinder wall as a previous post suggests.  
 I will do this when I re-measure the ring gap within the cylinder at several places up and down the cylinder wall.  
 I thought i was within wear limits and was ready to proceed with reassembly,  but if it is as it appears I will need to visit a machine shop with my cylinder and piston for professional assistance.  Which at least at this point seems like a no brainer. Right?

   Remeasured Ring Results:     The rings are new. However, they do have approximately 75miles of use as per the story /info I shared

Free end gap.       1rst ring=11.77mm.   2nd ring13.86mm
  Both of the measurements above fall right where you'd want them to be.

End gap within piston: 1rst ring=0.41mm.   2nd ring=0.38
 Again I believe both measurements to be within wear limits.

I used the piston to push both rings thru the cylinder one at a time.  I measured the ring gap and closely inspected for any light penetrating between the ring and cylinder wall and measured the gap at every stop.  I found no difference in the gap, and no irregularities between the rings and cylinder wall.
  This info along with the info provided in my original post(compression test revealed 185-190psi) leads  me to believe that the piston & cylinder are not to be held suspect for the twice blown cylinder/case gasket.   There is a possibility it still could be, but I believe enough evidence has been established to at least look beyond them as the cause.

  Now, moving along.   When last I put the engine back Together I noticed after I installed the cylinder over the piston and atop the gasket & case-When I installed the lower cylinder nuts to the studs (located on the clutch side of the engine) the opposite side of the cylinder would lift enough I could see light between the gasket(still sitting atop the case) and thr base of the cylinder.  
 This happened again yesterday as I was meticulously putting it back together.  I have tried it three ways-
  1. Without installing the double threaded post thru the cylinder.
  2. With the post installed and lightly hand tightened
  3. With the post installed without the head in place, but the posts      
       torqued to specs

  Each way returned the same result: as I torqued the lower cylinder nuts ,as the manual suggested, the opposite side of the cylinder base would lift.  

 I believe this to be the reason my cylinder/case gasket has blown twice, but I can't come up with why the cylinder tends to lift when the lower cylinder  nuts are torqued.  
 I intend to pull the post and inspect for debris at the bottom of the post's threads.  Keeping one or both post from seating properly.