The petcock can be disassembled if you feel you need to check it. Just be careful with the rubber seal inside. Silicone O-ring grease would be handy there if you've got some. Don't wanna tear it with friction after reassembly. You may also be able to pop off the plastic mesh standpipes. Be careful not to break them, and if they are loose, you can swell the brass pipe with a punch or something. The only difference between On and Reserve should be the height of the standpipe if I am not mistaken. Reserve is the shorter one.  Not sure if reserve should give any higher fuel pressure given the same vertical drop with the same tank level.

Also, did YOU do the carb or someone else? How do you know he replaced the float valve and cleaned the screen?

On the other hand, my guess it's probably the petcock.  

So I'm just going to throw this out there...just in case...did you block off the vac port on the carb after you installed the raptor?

Yeah, well no one has mentioned the fact that when you switch to the raptor you need to seal off the vacuum port on the carb...

you got 2 vents, 1 vacuum, and 1 for gas, don't mix them up.

Hmmm... Maybe it's something else then....

First things first... Test the petcock. Unhook the fuel hose and drain the tank into a pint jar while counting seconds. I think you need at least  a half pint a minute on the ON position, right guys? I think mine was doing around a pint a minute if I remember right.

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I'd say if you get half that much through the float bowl, you'll have more than enough gas. How many gallons per hour can the Savage use at sustained full throttle?

Then again, at 90 mph, you might run out of gas after an hour or so of driving. If you get 40 mpg, then you'll use 2.25 gallons after an hour. Hmmm... If you get 30 mpg, you'll be using 3 gallons per hour at 90 mph. If you get (good grief) 20 mpg, then you'll be using 4.5 gallons per hour at 90 mph. I guess 5 gallons/hour is a comfortable place, though you might not need quite that much.

From your problems, if the fuel flow to the bowl is causing it, I don't think you'll get half that. You may not even get a quarter of that. In short, if there's a fuel flow shortage there, you'll know it.

If you have the 145 main with straight pipe and performance filter, you're way too lean on that. Did you adjust the idle mixture? What you should be running for that is a 152.5 or 155 main with one or two washers for the white spacer mod. Not sure it's the exact cause of your problems, but it could give you trouble.

The two things I can think of are inadequate fuel delivery or extremely inadequate jetting. Straight pipes are trouble-makers, I gather, and they don't really perform better than a good muffler. In fact, to some ways, they perform worse due to exhaust reversion.

You can:

A. Loosen up the float bowl screw and drain the fuel (or run the engine till it dies) with the petcock off. Then turn it on and catch some in a pint jar; count the seconds after it begins to pour to calculate your fuel rate.

B. Change your jetting!
AFAIK, your combination probably requires some of the richest jetting of anyone here, apart from those with internal engine mods (The experts here are free to correct me.)
C. Do both.  

Easy peasy.  

Technically, the California models have even leaner jetting than stock, though I'm not sure how their pollution control stuff affects their ability to handle that. Nonetheless, you're too lean, and straight pipes are trouble. Get it fixed!

Does the bike run better with the enrichment knob "choke" pulled out? This is a simple test to reveal whether or not your bike needs richer jetting. If your engine idle speeds up with the enrichment knob pulled out at all while warm, it could point to either the idle mixture (adjustable to an extent), the needle jet (spacer mod fix), or both. A main jet deficiency is only revealed at or near full throttle.