So this video is from this morning. I have been trying to get her to start since last week without much luck. Here's the important info:

1. I have been starting it up and letting it run in the garage for 4-5 min every other week throughout the winter (in PA).

2. About January I forgot to start it up for about 5-6 weeks; then late Feb I thought I would give it a start, and this has been the result.

SYMPTOMS:

Here is a video showing my trying to start it this morning.
https://youtu.be/_-rOUfBELmc

1. At first start it seems like it has potential, but then dies out. This is followed by constant clicking and flickering lights.
2. Any immediate attempt only gets the clicks and not the sound of the starter and motor getting compression.

I left the battery to charge for a day or so with the Battery Tender until it was solid green. Same deal.

I ordered a new Bikemaster battery, filled it, let it sit, then charged it for about 30 hrs, until it was solid green, 3 times over.

This video is with the new battery fully charged, didn't seem too much different than with the older battery. I bought a multimeter tonight to start testing stuff out. Maybe need to replace the gas? Spark plug was just changed last summer so don't think it's that.

Any thoughts or insight is greatly appreciated.

youzguyz wrote on 03/03/16 at 12:25:52:


I am pretty sure the terminals are connected properly, but I am not familiar with where the ground wire to the engine would be. Any pics or tips handy?

There might be an electric diagram in the Technical section fo the forum. But if you tell me what you need, I have a factory book and will be happy to scan any pages.

All the symptoms in the video suggest a battery that is low on voltage, and can only crank the engine over slowly for one or two revolutions.  You need to get your new battery tested and see if it is good.  I bought a battery that was brand new and didn't last for more than a week.....so new batteries aren't always good.  And you need to get a volt meter to test the battery voltage at rest - and while the engine is cranking.

Also....starting the bike up and letting it run for 4-5 minutes is not good for the battery - or the engine.  The charging system will not be able to recharge the battery in that short of time, and the engine will build up a lot of condensation in the oil from the cold start - and the engine will never get warm enough to evaporate the water out of the oil.  And....running on the side stand is a possible cause of premature wear to the exhaust cam lobe and rocker.  (I bought a bike that the ownder did exactly what you are doing....and the cam wore out with only 3,800 miles on the bike).

And I agree with jcstokes.....when you pull out the enricher valve (choke), that circuit only works when the throttle is closed and the idle circuit is active.  When you open the throttle the butterfly moves away from the holes for the pilot circuit in the throttle body, and the engine will not get any fuel flow.  When you first try to start the bike and the engine is cold, pull out the choke and leave the throttle closed.....and then hit the starter button.  Some engines don't need the choke to start in warm weather - but you should still try to start the engine with the throttle in the closed position....or just slightly open - never with the throttle grip fully open unless you believe the engine is flooded with fuel.  



 

Video of voltage test.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZnvV14GuNs

Test results.

Standing Charge 13.07v
Key on 11.7v (lowest reading)
Start engaged 5.04v (lowest reading)

Guessing there is an issue with the battery. Now this was my first time installing acid into a battery as it came dry. It has 2 sets of 6 fuel pods to fill the battery. The instructions were not clear that both were to be used. I found some videos of people filling the same type of battery and they only used 1 set so I assumed that is what I should do and the other was an "extra". Could this be the problem?

If so, can I just unhook the battery and open the plug caps and insert the other acid pod?

Or is there something else that could be the culprit?

Bob, there are usually marks on the battery case for 'minimum' and 'maximum' levels, is the battery acid between those marks? if not, add acid
If so, the battery is likely bad, new or not
and almost 2 volt drop is unusual Ithink, and a drop to 5v cranking is definitely too low

Yeah it was confusing, the directions for the battery were generic and shown a tank of acid and a hose to fill, not like the pods they had sent. Also this battery is black through and through, there was no "fill line" or any kind of indicator as to fill. So I erred on the side of caution and only put one in.

In the meantime, I had charged the "old battery" up for about 30-40 hours and tested it. Worked perfect! Seems I was just impatient the first charge and didn't give it long enough to charge.

I am going to contact the manufacturer directly tomorrow and find out whether I should have put the other pod in the battery, or if it was an "extra". However I don't see why they would send extraneous sulfuric acid through the mail.

Rode all day today and can't wait for it to get a bit warmer as it was just warm enough to not start shaking due to the cold. Tomorrow should be 70+ so it's on!

Just got my Harley Dyna muffler in the mail today as my baffle blew out on my Jardine last summer, and a Jardine slash cut debaffled is LOUD!!!

Serowbot wrote on 03/07/16 at 17:16:20:


Yes, a megaphone that screams PULL ME OVER, PULL ME OVER!!!