Srotag wrote on 01/22/16 at 05:53:02:


You don't need the resistor when you use this as a tail/brake light bulb .....as the brake light system does not have a flasher unit.  You only need the resistor if you want to use this bulb in a turn signal.....and this really isn't a proper bulb for a turn signal....as I have no idea what kind of flashing you would get with the flasher unit trying to turn the bulb on and off....and the bulb trying to flash 3 times.

Superbright does offer this same bulb without the built in flasher....and that would be the proper bulb to use in a turn signal.  Then you either need the resistor to make the bulb flash properly - or you need to convert your mechanical flasher unit to an electronic one.

Here's a link to the video. I can't get it to embed in the post itself. Please excuse the amateur editing...

Stock on left, flashing LED on right. It isn't blinking 3 times real fast each time as my battery was low, but when all is good with the bike it flashes 3 times as expected.
S40 light

I like to think it helps. I'm in a college town and that means an exponentially higher number of kids hammering on a phone while driving. I still find myself massaging the brake to make it flash more frequently than the one minute interval.  I'd rather them think there is a little tiny disco party underway in my tail light than rear-end me.  

Thanks for the link and video Stew... bulb ordered.  

Some years back my brother William rigged up an LED stop light attached to the back of his helmet......I am sure it was battery operated and used some kind of wireless technology to make the LED blink when he hit the brakes. I thought it was certainly worthwhile.

If I still rode at night I would take the time to figure out how to do it.

Kenny G

No....I have an 8" diameter headlight and a Silvania Silverstar bulb.  The headlight bucket is from a Yamaha Virago and I don't think there is room in my headlight bucket for the back of the LED light.....the headlight bucket not very deep.

My car headlights are pretty crappy...and the Silverstars last less than a year in the car.

I do believe if you are going to buy LED bulbs....it is important to get ones that have the shields to prevent the glare when using the low beams.

Installed 2 15w each led spot lights this afternoon, hooked them into the low beam circuit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191710069951?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=...

Tried them out tonight, can't believe the difference! I can't see the low beam light now unless I cover the spots. They make everyone else's lights look yellow! You know how when someone comes up close behind you at night you can see your shadow ahead of you? Not now!  I can aim them independently, and they must be ok cause no one flashed up at me.  
 I'll post a picture tomorrow, photobucket is down for maintenance.

Kris01 wrote on 01/30/16 at 07:29:41:



Well....badwolf might be able to tell us before too long, as he had added 30 watts of light.

It is reported that we only have 100 Watts of power from the charging system.  If the low beam is 55 watts, and each of the front running lights and tail light is 8 watts each (24 total), and there are 2 lights in the speedometer that are 3 watts each (6 total)....that adds up to 85 watts on the stock bike.  Add 30 watts for the new driving lights, and you are at 115 watts....which doesn't appear to leave anything to charge the battery, run the turn signals or brake light.