After the thread started by "jjthejetplane" (sp?), describing picking up a nail in her rear tire, I got to wondering about roadside repairs to flat tires. A patch kit, 2 tire irons, & my old BMW manual pump could fix the tube, but the lack of a centerstand makes it problematic to get either wheel off the bike to GET to the tube.

I did a search for flat tire repair but didn't see any relevant info. Has anyone addressed this? (I have some ideas "percolating," but thought I'd ask before re-inventing the wheel.)

LOL...and it's a good answer, but many areas in Colorado & Wyoming have little or no cell service. I prefer "the road less taken"...with a nod to Robert Frost.  

I've been lucky (fingers crossed!). The only time I had to fix a punctured tire was on my Honda CM450, & that was a tubeless, so just plugged it, pumped it up and continued. Nonetheless, I still carry tire tools when on a trip.

I won't attempt to remove the rear tire on the rode, consequently I have roadside assistance on my insurance.
But, I carry a specialty tow strap that doubles as tie downs that I could use if a good Samaritan would agree to tow/haul me.
I've also designed a jack that allow me to remove the front tire on the rode for repairs- I carry bead-breaker irons, patch kit and a compact motorcycle air compressor.
I've not had to make a roadside repair, but I've done the breakdown and reinstall at home to make sure I can do it if necessary.
On a long trip I carry front and rear spare tubes. Most any shop could do the replacement, but not likely they would have the size I need in stock.

Next time you're out in the middle of no where, stop.
If you can't find something to prop your bike up so you can get the wheel off... pray.

Here's the jack set-up I referred to in the previous post for at least changing the front tire (unfortunately my digital camera just started malfunctioning before I could get a close-up of the jack). It's simply a base plate with a nut welded to it. A length of threaded rod screws into it. A second nut moves a piece of steel tubing up or down on the rod. The bike frame rests in a rubber-padded steel cradle that's welded to the top of the tubing. Completely assembled and in the lowest position, it measures about 6". I use an old, shortened open-end wrench to crank it up and down. It all breaks down to fit in a small pouch.

I first secure the handle bars with straps back to the passenger foot-pegs so that the front tire is line with the rear because:

1)The bike balances much better this way when jacked up.

2) It's much easier access for working than when turned to the side.

3)less jacking height is required for dropping the wheel out.

The jack is positioned directly across from the kickstand- good triangulation and stable in the raised position.

I also wedge the hand brake lever in the open position so as to not accidently close the brake calipers when the wheel is removed.

This probably sounds more complicated than it is- its fast and easy.  I've done this outside in the gravel and grass- it works fine.

Rick in Indiana


bigger size helps -v1

I think the side stand is too far forward to make doing that with the back wheel a safe proposition. Too much weight on it I think. I had a shot at it one day and decided against it. The jacking point under the battery is better.
On dirt bikes, with the side stand a lot further back, is easy to remove front or rear that way, just using a stick to hold that side up. No problem.

Tent stakes and light rope. SOME stability would beat nothing.

Change this...

https://www.bikepics.com/pics/2015/12/20/bikepics-2769186-200.jpg

to this...

https://www.bikepics.com/pics/2015/12/20/bikepics-2769186-480.jpg or 800 for a bigger pic

and you get this...