First of all, sorry for the wordiness.

I am having trouble checking the valve clearance on my S40.  I recently purchased it new and the scheduled maintenance suggests checking the valve clearance at the 600 mile mark.  (A good time to get acclimated to checking the valve clearance on the new bike.)

I've had some earlier experience at checking the clearance for this type of valve set up.  Have checked and adjusted similar types of valves on other bikes in the past.  (Even my current 1980's car has this type of valve adjustment which I do at the scheduled time)

So yesterday, I went through the procedure to check the valve clearance.  Removed the seat, removed the fuel tank, and removed the intake and exhaust valve adjuster covers.  Then I ran into two problems.


Problem 1:

I was unable to remove the valve timing inspection cover (on the left crankcase cover).  My 'tool' was to use a very large washer that I grind down on one side to fit exactly in the 'groove' of the cover.  Then I take a vice grips to hold onto the washer.  Finally, I use a large channel lock pliers to grab the 'vice grips-washer' combination to try to twist it loose (It's provides quite a powerful torque).  Unfortunately, it didn't loosen.  I tried flushing the cover with liquid wrench.  Still didn't work.

I'm at a loss.  The cover has never been removed, and I'm sure that it's way too tight.  The Clymer manual says that there is a Honda tool that can be purchased for this purpose.  Not sure if that is the way out.  

Open to your suggestions.


Situation and Problem 2:

The Situation:  Since I couldn't open the valve timing inspection cover, I decided to get within close proximity to TDC (top dead center) via another way, in order to check the valve clearance.  I removed the spark plug and carefully put a long narrow screw driver down the spark plug hole.  Then  put the bike in gear and carefully pushed the bike, thus rotating the engine until the piston pushed the screwdriver to it's highest point.  (I would never use this method to adjust the valves, but figured I could at least get an estimate on the valve clearance.)  Then checked the looseness of the valve tappets.  If all were not loose, I rotated the piston another 360 degrees more until TDC was reached.

The Problem:  I spent over an hour just trying to get the feeler gauge between the adjusting screw and the valves.  Could never make it happen.  I tried the exhaust valves and the intake valves, all without success.  It was just too cramped and too tight to even work in that small area.  Very hard to see ... and hard to get the feeler gauge in the right position to even slide the gauge between the adjusting screw and the valves.  No success at all.

Open to your suggestions.  I use the standard long flat feeler gauges.  Are there other types of feeler gauges that are smaller, or curved, or easier to handle in this tight spot?  I see in the Clymer book on page 15 they talk about feeler gauges that are: "specifically used for valve adjustments and are bent at a certain angle to make it easy to use them in normally tight areas".  Is this what I am lacking?  


Sure will appreciate any advice.

Thanks,
Ron G    

1.  Yep, it's TIGHT.  And probably too tight from the factory.   You are doing it right, and it is a regular right hand thread.  
A lot of us use an old front brake pad, as it is exactly the right size to put in that slot.. if you tap it in.
You might try it with the engine hot to see if that helps break it loose.

2. Yep, that's really tight too!!  I bought a set of regular feeler gauges, then took the 3 off that were "too thick, too thin, just right".  Bent those at about a 45 angle and then wired them together to so they were all handy.
If you are watching the valves as the motor turns, you will see the rocker arms move.  When the valve is closed, try to get the "too thin" feeler gauge in there.   It should go.  You might try a "way too thin" one first!

OH.. and, if I remember correctly, the Clymer manual is wrong on which way to rotate the crankshaft.  If you are looking at it from the timing cover side, you rotate it COUNTER clockwise.  (The same direction that the rear wheel turns when it rolls forward)

It has an oring. People who crank it tight and flatten the rubber till metal hits metal, then you got a problem. After the ride to warm up the engine, if it doesn't wanna play, try running it again and get oily t warmed back up, then stick an ice cube on the inspection cover, see if shrinking it relative to the engine case creates the clearance needed.
But sure Nuff, start with the brake pad and shape it to the radius of the groove.
I had washers, stacked up, some went in the slot, some were just backup for them, and the bolt through was the handle. Mine was never jammed.
I went back with antisieze,,

I finally just loosened the adjustment,put the gauge in and adjusted.
Then tested with the
Too tight
Gauge.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions!  Have taken all of the information in and will decide what to do next.  (a lot of options!)

I went to a local non-dealer motorcycle shop that pointed out some small feeler gauges specifically for motorcycles.  They are small and bent ... just for fitting into small places.  They have one gap size at one end and another gap size at the other end - around $5.00 apiece.  Kind of expensive, but I may try them out.  (I think they are from 'Motion Pro')

Thanks for  your help,
Ron G

Digger went for the fancy ones. I think he was satisfied. I was satisfied with the Z bent blades and I bent the readjusted end like a ski tip. After a few times going in there, I just opened the adjusters, poked the gauge in, finger tightened the adjusters, put the 90* screwdriver in, BARELY tightened the adjuster, held the adjuster as I snugged the nut, then pulled the gauge a bit, then pushed, if it wouldn't push, I'd slide it a bit more, feel of it, push again,, see how it felt,, you will develop a feel over time. If I thought it was a bit tight, pull the gauge , try a step down. If it went in and I could tell it wasn't lifting anything to do it,,and in tolerance, I ran it.
Always rock the rockers before you start and after you're done.
Press the rocker solidly against the cam before you start, and look at the adjustment on each of its valves. See what the fattest gauge is that you can get in. You might be in tolerance.

If you make note of those measurements before actually touching anything, if yours is like mine, the valve lash Change decreased as miles added up. The twenty thousand mile check hardly needed anything, but, I did run the valve on the tight side of specs. I wanted all the lift I could get and the least slamming the pointy tip of the adjuster I could get and still close valves.