Those connectors,,, uggh, I've used those.. I wasn't happy with the long term . They work, but didn't last.
The tubular butt splice work okay.. but a good stripper really helps, well, DUUHH, don't they, though?
And then they crimp the splicer onto your wire.
And that can be nice,,

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063W-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ/ref=...

At Lowe's, not in tools, but in back, with the electrical supplies, conduit, breakers,I spent around twenty-five..
But they just strip.
Crimpers are part of electronic cheapo, usually red handled,wire stripper/crimpers.
You can get a set of the common gauge connectors and a stripper/ crimper at harbor freight.
I'm not a fan of wire nuts and vibration.
I usually solder and heat shrink, but, seems aircraft guys are less thrilled about that. I've never had a failure.

I would trust a properly soldered and heat shrinked connection a lot more than I would any connection with some sort of connector whether that be spade, butt splice crimp, wire nut, twisted and taped...but that's just me.

I was thinking that given the state of affairs with it he was asking about his initial trial.  Even with that I'd still prefer a bullet or spade for testing.  Once it's sorted he'll solder them, I'd expect.

If trial run is the goal, then use the wire nuts. Those wire taps sometimes don't work, brand new.
What gauge wire the project has is not something I would know.

Well in, ’troubleshooting’ a connection,
I do wire nuts.
Then, when everything is, ‘as it should be’,
go back and, (as JOG says), soder and shrink Wrap.

Or, if it needs to be taken apart for some reason or another,
‘Bullet’ ends, (soder and shrink wrapped) to the ‘Bullet’ ends.

a buddy of mine fixed the 'famous savage oil leak' for me. that cost nothing other than a lot of coffee and donuts lol. but as we were putting things back together he commented that he's not sure how long the valve covers would last and after a few weeks i'm sure it was them that started the new leak. disturbing everything in the case i'm sure didnt help their lifespan.  So hopefully its not an expensive job lol i actually gave him a number and said if you go over this thats all you'll get but you'll get me as a shop boy to work the rest off lol

Not being there to see, no idea about how it was done.
I went in a few times. Never had a leak. The only leak was the clutch arm o ring in the clutch cover. The bike isn't junk, taking it apart, putting it together, with attention to detail, and there's no reason to expect it to fall apart.

I know that everyone is dying to know how much it set you back.  I'm cringing already in anticipation.  There's no pressure to tell if you don't want to, though, but where I live, all of that would've cost around $400.  I hope you got a better deal than that.