Hey guys, looking for advice.

2002 savage with 25.5k miles.

I think I have some clutch slippage because around 55 - 60 MPH when I give it gas the engine RPM increases fine, but with very little increase in speed. Ill bring it up another 1k RPM for like 5mph increase.

I have used either Shell Rotilla or Valvoline V Twin oil designed for wet clutches. Occasionally a little Lucas Oil but not to much.

I am thinking the friction plates are worn and the clutch may be slipping (I might be wrong on this but it is my best guess) so if it is true, is it best to replace the friction disks and the metal plates or is just the friction disks fine?

Hey Justin, to be honest I have only recently noticed (Within 3 months or so) because I did not often take it on the highway and get to those speeds.
I tried adjusting the clutch lever and it has maybe 1/8" play or so.

The more it happens, the less likely you are to not buy parts.

I dunno about that Lucas stuff.

Rotella is proven to keep these things alive.
Your
Not too much
may have not been correct.

There's one guy here who has made a real study of clutch plates. People sent him plates they replaced. Several have flushed out and saved them.

tried adjusting the clutch lever and it has maybe 1/8" play or so.

As long as it has slack...

Iceman4193 wrote on 07/21/15 at 18:22:41:


Since the adjustment and clutch rod appear to be OK....the clutch is not worn.  You have contaminated it with "friction modifiers".

Take the clutch apart and scrub the plates with Simple Green, Purple Power or a similar cleaner.  Get several pieces of 360 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.  Lay the sandpaper on a flat surface and then rub the fiber discs lightly on the sandpaper until the shine is gone, then do a similar cleaning on the steel discs using a Brillo Pad or Scotch Bright.  Clean off the plates again, dry them off, and then put a light coat of oil on the plates and put the clutch back together.

From now on......no Lucas or other oil additives except some Redline ZDDP if you want to add it.  Only use oils that are compatible with wet clutches.

I have the stock clutch plates and stock springs and I don't have any clutch slippage with my modified motor and taller gearing.  I only use Rotella T and an ounce of Redline ZDDP with each oil change.

Most of our bikes can slip the clutch if you accelerate hard before the engine is warmed up - the thick oil between the plates provides less ability for the clutch to grab until the oil warms up and things out.

I believe JOG had a clutch pivot come apart after placing a washer under his clutch springs.

I bought some new "10% stiffer" springs and a set of Kevlar friction discs - but I have not yet installed them and cannot comment on them being any better (or not).  I am currently running on the "if it aint broke don't fix it" mode.....my stock clutch is working fine.

REMEMBER - All those oil additives that make the oil more slippery, more energy efficient, or more clingy might be good for the bearings and cylinder - but they most likely will not be good for your clutch!

wolfsgrin wrote on 07/22/15 at 04:44:52:

I put the heavier springs on my '96 and the throwout arm did crack.  But I replaced it with another stock arm and it's been fine (knock knock) ever since.

My feeling on this is if you maintain the correct geometry on the throwout arm, you'll maximize leverage and travels such that heavier springs aren't needed.  I will custom grind the throwout rod so the ends are spherical.  I also will fit the rods so there is 12 to 12.5mm extended out of the clutch pack.  13mm is too long and will bottom out throwing out the clutch permanently.

Some reports of the throw out breaking by people who had done nothing.
If I intended to keep riding I dunno what I'd do. I'd hafta at least consider having one machined.