On my 87 4 speed, I can run 50-58 ish all day but when I pish it to 60 its wicked loud and it usually pops which jerks it forward. I know I have a ways to go because I briefly open the throttle a lot and it sounds good. Like when it pops I'd open the throttle some more and it seems as if it briefly smooths out as I pass 63 ish but the slightest closing of the throttle results in the same backfire, almost as if its not backfire but its idk starving for fuel maybe? The petcock is the raptor with great fuel flow so that's not it. Idk. I'm planning on going on a 100 mile trip with around half of that on the highway behind my parents trailer so we won't be going over 60. So I should be fine but I don't know what is causing this. Its only when Im around between past a 1/2 and over 3/4 throttle it will do this.

No. Its always done this. I bought it at 19k. Did the cam chain mod at 20 thats about it. Changed spark plug when I first bought it, change oil every 750-1000 miles. guy I bought it from said "It's not really a highway bike, only does about 60-65" I have gone on the interstate, stayed in the right lane at a steady 65 did push it to almost 70 but felt I was pushing the bike hard. anyways yes it has always done this, sometimes when I just start it in the morning it wont, other times it will but usually it does this.

I hope someone else is paying for the oil.

Are you running an open pipe?...

I'm running apod filter and stick pipe. Previous owner debaffled and rejetted ( I assume got the debaffling) but I still know soon enough how he rejetted. Last night I took the bowl of and cleaned it out. Is there any method of cleaning it without removal and disassembly completely like running seafoam or anything of the sort because as of now I can get but with how it runs

What is a "stick pipe"?   Is it just a straight through piece of pipe without a baffle?  If so....that and the Pod filter are going to make it very difficult to jet and get it to run smoothly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjKUKhHQLHg

You also need to check and make sure the pod filter is not blocking the air vent at the top of the carb inlet.  Some of these pod filters block the oval vent at the top of the inlet and the carb slide cannot work properly.

If you take the float bowl off and can get the main and pilot jets out ad clean them, that may be adequate.  It really depends on what is making the bike run poorly.  Changing the white spacer on the slide needle to 2-3 washers may require you to remove the carb....however some folks have been able to rotate the carb and get the slide out of the carb.  The washers are #4 machine screw washers and are available at hardware stores that have a good selection of screws....or you can get the kit from Lancer that also includes gaskets and a selection of jets.

Remove the carb and give it a good cleaning. Make sure that the jets are unclogged and that the float height is correct. On an older bike it probably wouldn't hurt to do a leak-down test, if for no other reason to rule out any potential compression or valve train issues.

How long does a carb cleaning take. Could I remove it night before and clean it in the morning put it back together and have it running by afternoon someday perhaps a weekend?