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No power at all (Read 525 times)
chzeckmate
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Re: No power at all
Reply #60 - 06/07/15 at 19:58:06
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/07/15 at 19:39:42:
I've never looked under one before, but the epoxy iscracked,  been getting hot?
Normal condition?


Good eye. there are three small cracks.  There are small metal fragments poking through the two bottom cracks.  You can just barely make it out.  I'm not sure if it's been getting hot, but it sure has been hot here... 100 degrees today.  Being under the seat probably doesn't get a lot of airflow either.

Steve H wrote on 06/07/15 at 19:11:52:
Testing instructions in the link I posted


I think I understand how the test is supposed to go.  If I'm not mistaken I'm testing diodes so I need to set the multimeter to the diode position and then place the negative probe on one of the pins in the white connector while placing the positive probe on a pin in the black connector with three pins.  Repeating the process interchanging the negative and positive probes respectively in the white and black connectors until I have the 6 readings...Is that correct?
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'05 S40, dyna muffler, rejet, high flow filter, Mobil 1 Racing 4T, Shinko 230 set with 140/90 rear, raptor, seat lift, LED running lights/signals, tach, reversed risers, homemade MR10 Lexan windscreen
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: No power at all
Reply #61 - 06/07/15 at 20:07:16
 
There are small metal fragments poking through the two bottom cracks.  

Well, I would tend to condemn it based on that.

Now, is it possible for the output from the coils to cook it?
Can it be putting out too much voltage?
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chzeckmate
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Re: No power at all
Reply #62 - 06/07/15 at 21:04:51
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/07/15 at 20:07:16:
There are small metal fragments poking through the two bottom cracks.  

Well, I would tend to condemn it based on that.

Now, is it possible for the output from the coils to cook it?
Can it be putting out too much voltage?


I'd be interested to hear reports from other members on the condition of the under side of their R/R's.  I have had other products arrive new with the epoxy cracked underneath looking very much like this.  Most recently a lawn mower hour meter.  They worked just fine.  In this case, I'd say you're right to be skeptical of it.  

I found a YouTube video that demonstrated the test so I tested it and I'm sure it's bad.  I would expect the diodes to measure uniformly but my results were anything but.  I'm also concerned about how it came to be bad.  I'm relying on the expertise of the fellowship here to help me through that if it comes to it.  

I've ordered the new R/R that old rider linked above.  Delivery is expected by June 13.  Keeping my fingers crossed for fast shipping.  After I get it I suppose we can do more troubleshooting if needed.  

I want to thank everyone for chipping in to help me.  I'll report as soon as I know something more.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: No power at all
Reply #63 - 06/07/15 at 21:14:33
 
Is the paint under it normal?
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chzeckmate
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Re: No power at all
Reply #64 - 06/07/15 at 21:24:40
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/07/15 at 21:14:33:
Is the paint under it normal?


Yes the paint under it is normal but I should mention that It wasn't bolted to the fender as you might expect.  The PO had added a set of Willie and Max bags and the R/R wan attached to the the yolk under the seat.  The yolk looks quite normal with no signs of damage from the R/R.  
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Re: No power at all
Reply #65 - 06/08/15 at 07:05:27
 
Sounds like the regulator is shot... get yerself a new one, and when you hook it in, make sure it gets good airflow over it to keep it cool.

Replace then, add a new fuse, charge the battery, hook it all back up and let us know what you get.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: No power at all
Reply #66 - 06/13/15 at 11:17:27
 
Don't give up.
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chzeckmate
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No power - Fixed, sort of...
Reply #67 - 06/13/15 at 11:28:05
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/13/15 at 11:17:27:
Don't give up.


Thanks...I have an update now.  Oh my gosh what a day I've been having.  Getting the new regulator/rectifier installed fixed the parasitic draw but didn't fix the no power problem...but then just as I was about to give up something happened.  The key was in the on position and I accidentally juggled the wires leading to the ignition switch and SHAZAM...I saw for a brief second the neutral light.  I jiggled again until I saw it again and sure enough when I held it in place in just the right spot I got a continuous neutral light.  I tightened the zip tie to keep it there and then depressed the starter button and yep she fired up.

...Now here's the crazy thing.  When I turned the key to the off position she just kept running.  What the heck?  I turned the key to park, on, off, and back...nothing just kept running.  I jiggled the key and off she went but more of a sputter not like the usual iconic shut off sound.  What can I make of this?  Do I need a new ignition switch or just splice some new wire in there?  I'm going to have to rely on the collective experience of the forum.

For what it's worth, the shut off issue couldn't for a moment wipe the smile off of my face from hearing the old girl fire up again.  You guys were absolutely right about the advice you gave me and I want to thank you all again.  Hopefully I can lean on you again for advice on the ignition issue.  Cheers!
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: No power at all
Reply #68 - 06/13/15 at 11:56:49
 
Wiggling wires may not sound all that scientific, but its part of hunting a problem. You found where, but its not fixed.
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chzeckmate
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Re: No power at all
Reply #69 - 06/13/15 at 12:00:25
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/13/15 at 11:56:49:
Wiggling wires may not sound all that scientific, but its part of hunting a problem. You found where, but its not fixed.

True but the parasitic draw is gone and the battery is charging correctly again that's a good start.  Now, hopefully with the help of the great wealth of knowledge here I can get that sorted out too ...fingers crossed.
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Re: No power at all
Reply #70 - 06/13/15 at 12:06:57
 
Glad to hear that you got the one problem solved.  Now, it sounds like you've got a wiring connector or ignition switch problem.

Keep at it...You'll get it all sorted soon.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: No power at all
Reply #71 - 06/13/15 at 12:18:04
 
Steve H wrote on 06/13/15 at 12:06:57:
Glad to hear that you got the one problem solved.  Now, it sounds like you've got a wiring connector or ignition switch problem.

Keep at it...You'll get it all sorted soon.




Yeah, location of the problem is generally found.
Now, gotta go in and find it.
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chzeckmate
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Re: No power at all
Reply #72 - 06/13/15 at 15:15:25
 
Okay so I've done some tests and observations but I'm not sure how to interpret them.  I'd like to pass them along to the collective and see if we can narrow this down together.

1. When I attempt to shut off the engine by turning the key OFF all of the lights go very dim and seem to pulse with the rpm of the motor.

2.  The green connector that leads to the ignition switch (see image) switch has 4 wires.  The red wire is hot all the time and the other three are hot only when the key is ON.

3.  When I disconnect the green connector while the bike is running there is no effect.  When I disconnect it when the bike isn't running The bike will not start.

4.  Kill switch works.

5.  Side stand switch works.

6.  There is no visible damage to any of the wires I inspected.

Any help is seriously appreciated.  I really don't know how to proceed from here but I'm eager to learn and get working on it.  I have a feeling one of you Suzuki heros has some insight.  Thanks!

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justin_o_guy2
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Re: No power at all
Reply #73 - 06/13/15 at 16:05:37
 
You found the wires that changed things. Its not like the head plug or cam chain. Nobody has a
How to
For it.
You hafta study what moves, trace power, find and fixx it.
Take the zip tie off and study it.
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Steve H
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Re: No power at all
Reply #74 - 06/13/15 at 20:30:53
 
Sounds like it's running on just the power being generated when you turn off the switch.

The switch completes two circuits when on.  One for the tail and tag light and one that runs the rest of the bike.

Looking at my wiring diagram, the output from the vreg only connects to two places, one switched on pole on the switch and the decomp controller.

Is your decomp controller working correctly? Do you hear two clicks when you hit the start button before the engine begins to turn over? It should take about 1/2 sec from hitting the button for the engine to start turning.

Wiring is so easy and so hard at the same time.  I hate wiring issues.  Too many little magic boxes. Not like the old days when you turned on the key, it went through the kill switch and then to the coil and also split off before the kill to the lighting circuit. Only magic box was the selenium rectifier.
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