Are you talking about the allen head pin that holds the brake pads in place?

The only way I can think to try is taking it off the bike, giving it a good soaking in penetrating oil....then using a drill and screw extractor (EZ out) to remove it.  Depending on how good you are with a drill and the extractor....you make be successful....or not.

(I do have a good used caliper if you need one).

savagerider87 wrote on 05/15/15 at 06:40:34:


Let me take it off this weekend and see how good of shape it is in....it is from a 2001 bike.

Some things to consider...

1. That Allen head bolt is striped because the PO couldn't get it to move. The remaining bolt is more then likely frozen. Very frozen.
2. Before you drill it for the extractor, heat it and hammer the head with a drift pin.
3. After tapping it with drift pin, lay the bike on its side so you can soak the bolt with PJ Blaster. I'd hit it 3 or more times during the course of a 24 hour period. I'd also lay it down on the opposite side to get at the back of the bolt head.

After the steps above, drill it for the extractor. Choosing the right extractor will be a crap shoot. If you go big on the first try and don't get it, you have no where to go. If you go too small and the extractor breaks off, you may not be able to re-drill it. Id' choose an extractor that is one size too small, get it to grab and see how it feels.

If you bugger-up the head side, you can try again from the rear side, but you'll have to use a tap, rather then an extractor. Then you can thread a bolt and go at it with breaker bar.

50/50 mix transmission fluid and acetone. Better penetrating oil than anything else, well, wintergreen oil may be close. Study the caliper closely, anything that might have it bound. Put oil on, leave it sit, a block of wood and a few raps with a hammer, vibration aids penetrating,, a proper sized allen wrench,set in, smacked a few times, clean, Clean the bolt head , cut the allen wrench off, leave enough to get a socket on, mix up JB Weld, epoxy the allen wrench in.
Drilling can come later, you may avoid it.

If you have a propane soldering iron, you'd be ahead to heat the allen head bolt, blow the heat right into the head of the bolt, then, its Grown a bit, squirt a skinny stream of water in, if you can get vise grips on it, it may turn, when the bolt shrinks, the oxidation cracks,

You could even possibly shim the bolt/wrench contact area, tin snips and a feeler gauge,

Smooth surfaces and epoxy aren't good and Wetting, rubbing directly on,, pressing the epoxy on, each surface, then dobbing a glob in and pressing the tool in,, ..

Set the piece in and Mark it, so you'll know when you're in all the way.

Risk boring us, how did you do it?