The bike I have wasn't much when I bought it. So I bought a new rear fender to mount on it. But to attach the rear fender it looks like I am gonna have to remove the rear tire as well.

So I was wondering if removing the rear springs would also be an option. Is it possible to remove them and push the rear wheel down so I can mount it without having to remove the rearwheel. Or maybe there is an other solution?

The bottom guard for the belt interferes and prevents the swing arm from dropping very far below the bottom of the shock travel.  (If you still have the belt guards on.....you will have to remove the bottom one to get the swing arm to drop).

Dave wrote on 05/04/15 at 06:24:58:


I've removed the belt guards quite sometime ago so that won't be the issue

It does sounds like it is easy to remove the rear wheel. Removing something often is... But I don't want to screw up putting the rearwheel back in place. If it is the exact opposite of removing it should be a piece of cake but won't it be a problem with the belt? I don't want the tension to drop or something. (in other words what should I pay attention to when I put the wheel back on?)

Putting the rear fender back on without removing the wheel or anything else isn't an option since there isn't enough room to put my hand between the bolt and the wheel (and tools won't fit then either) I've tried it the other day but no succes.

Gary_in_NJ wrote on 05/04/15 at 08:36:29:


All right. I have a go at it in the weekend.  Wish me luck

I was terrified to remove the rear wheel on mine. I even watched as the mechanic at the garage did it. Once I did it myself, it was easy peasy. The only thing I can add to the advice  you already received is to loosen the belt tensioners before removing the axle and count the turns so it is easier to get back to where it all began.

It is interesting on how many different ways people think are the way to do the rear wheel remove/replace.  This is just the way I do it.

I never touch the adjusters.  There is (barely) enough slack in the belt to put the wheel back on with them set "as they were".  However, backing them off (and counting the turns as suggested by Greg) will give you more room to jockey and jiggle the wheel in place and get the axle through.

My method involves lowering the bike onto the wheel instead of lifting the wheel up to the bike.  This is especially a good idea if you are doing it alone.  Keeping all the pieces together, getting the brake arm on the swing arm correctly, AND lining up the holes is easier that way.

And a jack that will lift the bike higher will let you just roll the wheel out past the license plate instead of wiggling it out of the fender well.