Your neutral light switch must be acting up.  The safety interlock thinks the bike is in gear....so when you put up the kickstand it kills the engine so you don't try to ride off (in gear) with the kick stand down.

The blue wire that starts down at the engine near the oil sight window goes up to a connector under the tank on the right side of the frame.  The switch is inside the engine.....you need to take off the clutch cover to access it.

It could be just a loose or broken wire - if your neutral light doesn't work, then check the connector under the tank.  If you put an ohm meter there the wire should go to ground when the engine is in neutral, and be an open circuit when the bike is in gear.

Dave, checked out the manual regarding the safety interlocks.  Before scoping out the neutral switch, I figured I'd look at the easier to get to interlocks, and sure enough, when I looked at the clutch lever it was not fully engaging the tiny switch button.  Upon more investigation, I realized the clutch was too loose and the locknut was not even tightened against the clutch lever, but loosely aligned with the cable adjustment.  Adjusted the clutch to the recommeded .12 inch, tended the battery for 12 hours, cleaned all the leads, and what do you know,....cranked up the first time and stayed powered on through all the gears.  Thanks to you I was able to focus on the safety interlocks and not investigate the whole electrical harness.  Whew!  A little guidance, a little manual research and a bit of luck and I'm ready for spring.  Thank God for this website!  Also, for those with access to the battery complaints, I added a strap around the actual battery and coated the inside of the battery box with vaseline on the touch points where the battery dragged and didn't want to come out.  Now everything just slides in and I can grab the strapes to easily slide the battery out.  No longer a hassle.