pg wrote on 03/16/15 at 16:39:09:


Anywhere really. You're just further compressing the spring with the washers. It makes most sense to place them at the top just under the cap. This way they will be easy to retrieve if you add too many.

That can be tight. It's only torqued to 18-26 ft-lbs but it seems much tighter due to how awkward it is to loosen it.

Yes, put the slider (the lower) in a vice. For the left fork you can clamp the caliper mounts in the vice. For the right you'll want to protect the tube with some shop rags.

For some reason Suzuki didn't leave room for 3/4" or 1/2" drive 8mm hex key, so you cant use an impact driver. To gain enough leverage on the hex key, use the box end of a large wrench to "extend" the hex key - this will increase your leverage exponentially.

These tricks should get you loosened up. BTW, don't loose the copper washer on the hex bolt. If one isn't on the bolt when you remove it, then it's stuck to the fork. Retrieve it before it decides to take a run across your shop floor, under something that you can't easily move.

Gents:

I have the dampener rod out and I'm trying to get the slider tuber from the bottom portion of the fork.  Is this threaded or should it just pull out with some persuasion.  The Clymer said may have to add heat or hot water, I don't quite get that.  If possible, please offer some insight, thanks.

Best regards,

Yeah, I'm replacing the fork seals.  I don't know what a wiper is and I think I removed the c clips.  Are those the things that look like a stretched out paper clip?  I still can't get them to budge?

Best regards,

...and while I'm think of this...

fork seals fail for a reason. Sometimes some dirt dirt gets in between the tube and the seal. Sometimes there was too much compression that leads to a failure.

Another reason is that there is an imperfection on the fork tube like a scratch or pitting. Inspect the fork tube well to ensure that the tube doesn't require some rework before assembly. You really don't want to do this job twice.

Before putting the seal in place, lube the fork tube with WD-40. It will make it much easier to slide the seal down the tube.

Gents:

I got it back together and I think it is going to work out pretty well.  Thanks for the insight, it made it go a lot smoother.  

Best regards,

Ok gents, the new fork seals seam to be working just fine.  I do have one other question though.  I put dry star fork boots on and one of them fits significantly tighter than the other.  When I hit a bump the boot will not come down.  I'm pretty sure one of the boots just has a smaller diameter as opposed to the other.  I would like to keep as much crap out of the seal as I can.  Does anyone have any ideas?  Is their an oil I can use that won't attract to much dirt?  Should I cut the boot and use a zip tie to hold it in place?  Thanks.

Best regards,