I dropped a deposit down today on a new 2014 S40.  Usually with a new vehicle I change the oil and cut open the filter (check for metal ) after 100 miles or so.  Repeat the same at 200-250 and after that I change whenever the shifting seems more notchy than usual (1500-2000) miles.

I use Rotella T in everything.  I used to use XD-3 but they quit making it.

Thanks for the reply JC,  they are crating in a bike and it is supposed to be here in Feb.  I read about the break in speeds and it seems to be industry standard.  Minus 25 centigrade this AM and I don't expect ice free roads until April.

You're going to get a lot of different opinions about this but here's mine FWIW.

Suzuki recommends 600 miles for the first change, then every 3500 after that - at least thats's what the owners manual for my '06 says. I don't think there is any reason for changing oftener than that. I've always pretty much followed the mfr.s recommended oil change intervals in every vehicle I've ever owned and I've never had an engine problem in any of them - even back when engines and oil weren't nearly as good as they are today.

Regardless of the interval, the collective wisdom on this forum is that Rotella is the oil to use, so you're on the right track there.

If I was ever to get a, ’New’, MC.  I would do this. (Especially a S-40. learning from the excellent information from this site, using (Rotilla With Redline added), because it is Still a 30 year old, designed, engine). Start, heat, 5 +/- min. Drop oil. New oil, , run for 10, drive it around the block/yard/etc,  “”gently””. Drop oil again, do same again. Then drop oil again, AND change filter. Then drive as ‘break in specks, for 100-200 miles. Drop again. Then continue break in, and change as recommended.  I believe, that that $20.00 +/-,  of extra oil is.  Very Cheep, one time insurance, for a very long motor life.

On any, New’, I.C.E. I do the following, Take it home, start it up, run it for 3-5 min, just to get her hot enough.
Then change oil.  Put in new oil, run for 15 min, ’No Load’, drop oil. New oil, run for 30 min, light load. drop oil.
Then drop oil, and New oil AND filter (if it has one), Then run for about a 10’th the time the book says to first oil change.
Then new oil and run as OM says.  And they LAST.

The first, ’New’, ICE I had, I did this to a 5 hp B&S on my log splitter, 37 years ago.  It went through two pumps, set of hoses, & 3’rubber’, couplers, (Eng to Pump). And when I gave it to my Brother 3 years ago, (who always, borrowed’ it), the engine was still running Perfect! (The rest, not so much, but hey the engine was Perfect)

The, ’New’, engine on the replacement. Salesman said, ’She’s ready to go, all oiled up, just take her home and run it, and every 50 hours, change oil.    Well, took it home, ran for 3-5 min, dropped the oil, it was BLACK,  (normal colored before I started, I looked). Next run, 10 min, oil was less black, but still black and, had the ’sparkles’, when running into the pan. Next run 10 again, oil was cleaner than before, but Still, Much dirtier than when it was put in. 20 Min, oil came out, almost looking like it did when it went in. Changed again. And now, when I change at 30-40 hours, the oil comes out looking like the 2nd 10 min run. (With NO, ’sparkles’).  Can you imagine, If I had run that first oil for 50 hours, how long the engine would last.?  All in all it cost 20.00. in oil.   $20.00 rather cheep One Time, insurance, against a $500.00 engine.

Well the, 'red-line', product is a, Engine 'break' in oil additive.
Meant to be added to, any oil, for break in, at the rate of about 2 oz per quart.

In this engine, the recommended rate is, (for everyday use)
1/8 - 1/4 oz to a quart, of Rotella.
(Most probably more, if another oil, which has no Zinc in it, "ZDDP")

So, if, worried about 'special' break in oil.  Just add 2 oz to the first, 2-3 oil changes, then drop back down to 1/2 oz for then next couple. then after 1,000 miles or so, down to 1/8-1/4 oz.

In small engines, I always added a cap full, of some, 'snake oil additive', to the oil.  But I truly believe, the long life, is due to the frequent oil changes.

As to cost, let's see, 16oz RedLine, 16.00 +/-.
So that 1.00 a oz, or about, (with recommendations),
about .30 - .40 Cents extra per oil change.

Always knew, no, 'friction modifiers' in a wet clutch.
But who would have known, (Except from the excellent advice on this site), that, Zinc, (ZDDP), was, still, needed in a, 'NEW', MC like this one.

Have used, 'STP', 'Marvel Mystery Oil', and now the, 'Lucas', in small, 'old' ICE engines.  And they all have worked fine..   BUT, they are NOT 'wet' clutches.

Again. Do what ever you wish to do.
This is just what I do, and what I, 'would' do,
if ever I got a New S40, with 0 miles on it.

Which could happen, 'Almost bought one'
a,  NEW, 2013 one, 0 miles, left over, at 4,875.00.
BUT, he wanted, (in addition to the Sales Tax),
$190.00 Prep, $320.00 Setup, 230.00, testing.

I'll keep looking.