Where would be the best place to go to learn to totally tear down the bike?
I wanted to learn how to, I have the Clymer but it is a little confusing at times, and I was hoping there was a step by step on here somewhere. I would like to check the valves, cam chain, camshaft, piston, cylinder, and anything else that should be checked at 19000 miles on my 2001 to catch any small problems before they become big ones.

Also, I have been noticing a bit of engine roughness at low RPM usually going from 2nd through 4th gear. I am generally shifting from 1st to 2nd at 10mph, 2nd to 3rd at 20mph, and 3rd to 4th at 30. I know I have a small exhaust leak that for some reason even with 2 aluminum cut outs, one between the header and Dyna and one over the top of the Dyna and 2 clamps, and I am not sure what kind of issues that will cause.

Im looking to learn so any advice is appreciated.

Raise all your shift poirnts by 10mph... you're lugging the engine...

Don't tear down the engine unless it needs it...
I have 33k on mine...  
Check your camchain adjuster, (probably needs a Verslavy)...
Later,... you'll need to replace the stator on the other side...
... but, if you need a step by step instruction,.. a complete teardown will give you a basket case...
I wouldn't attempt that myself...

OK I'll try shifting a bit higher, it is weird that the manual says to shift so low for some reason. I figured it was better for the transmission to shift at lower speeds. How common are transmission problems on this bike?

I have a verslavy, I am just waiting for the gasket I ordered to come in to do the swap, holidays are slowing it down...

I didn't necessarily want to do a tear down, just wanted to learn how to if I needed to and so I can learn a little more about the inner workings of the engine. I find the more you know about it the better you can care for it.
This bike is my only transportation so if it goes down and I don't know how to fix it, it would be pretty bad.

Thanks for the advise

I never had any problems with the transmission. I ground the pegs through turns till I had to wire the rubber onto the right one. The end cap was threatening to fall off. I ran through gears without the clutch,once it was in second. The RPM change between first and second is just too much to manage smoothly.. but,second to fifth and back down is easy, and I'm not talking about loafing along, I'm talking about running wide open, running zero to 60 times down close to 6 seconds. The manual and its shift point recommendations were not a consideration after it was broken in. I ran the crap outta mine,never had any problems because of it.. Sold it with 20,000 miles and it was running great.. I did use the clutch when I was just tooting along easy,just depending on how I felt at the time.

Iceman4193 wrote on 12/30/14 at 12:52:47:


Adjusting the mixture screw should not take hours.  Start the bike up and get it warmed up.  Set the idle just a bit low....this is the only time that you are allowed to run with an idle around 1,000 rpm.  While it is idling slowing turn the screw in until you hear the engine rpm begin to drop.  If you can turn the screw all the way in and the engine rpm does not drop the the pilot jet is too big or the idle is too high.  Once you find the point where the idle mixture slows the engine down....turn the screw out until you reach the maximum rpm....and if you hear the engine run smoothly and then begin to slow down and chug a bit...you have turned the screw out too far.  Turn the screw back in a bit for the smoothest running.  If you turn the screw out 3 turns and the engine is still running smoothly...the pilot jet is too small.  The tapered needle has no effect after 3 turns as the taper has come out of the hole so far that it no longer restricts the flow.  Once you find the happy place....the screw should ideally be about 2 - 2.5 turns out.  If the screw is out more than 2.5 turns you should put in a larger pilot jet.  If the screw is out less than 1.5 turns you might consider a smaller pilot jet.  When you are done with the mixture adjustment be sure to set the idle speed back up above 1,000 rpm.  (The reason you drop the rpm down a bit is that if the throttle is opened too far - the needle jet might be providing fuel that will make it nearly impossible to adjust the idle fuel mixture).

If after doing the adjustment you want to try opening the idle mixture screw a bit to cut down on the pops and bands.....turn it out 1/8th turn and ride it again.  Don't turn it out more than 1/4 turn or so....or you will be running the bike too rich.  

Here is a video that shows you how to adjust the idle mixture screw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm5mB3R8Ucw

Once the muffler/header leak is fixed - you may still get popping from the bike.  It is impossible to get a big single with a carb not to backfire if you allow the throttle to close completely between shifts or when slowing down.  Try holding the throttle just a tad open when you shift of slow down.  Don't hold it open so far the bike is accelerating...just enough to quiet down the rumble.  

T Clamps, search online ( so you have a clue about prices), then call around to Industrial Supply houses. I wanna T Clamp I go to a Bearing Supply house, they sell bushings and grease and oil and just all kindsa good stuff.
O'Reilly don't got no T Clamps,,, but the Harley Davidson shop does.

A NOTE,,,

A fella here was IN NEED and,IIRC, he tried a Normal T Clamp and was not satisfied,but said the Harley Davidson clamp gotterdun. I have no opinion of my own, I'd call, compare prices, decide..
And, some leaks are GONNA leak, no matter what kinda clamps get used...
If it's not a good fit,you'll hafta get it apart and get it cleaned up and fitting.

CAUTION IS CALLED FOR when yanking or banging on the exhaust. Only two skinny bolts that are in a delicate position hold it, so,if you need to Put some Stink On It, remove it.