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Quick Clutch Switch and Side Stand Switch Jumpers (Read 115 times)
Digger
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Quick Clutch Switch and Side Stand Switch Jumpers
11/15/14 at 21:27:06
 
Back when I was a teen, my old man bought a used snowmobile.  I was helping him change the drive belt one day.  After he removed the old belt, I threw it in the trash and grabbed the new one for him.  After he was done installing the new belt, he asked me where I'd put the old one.  When I told him, he gave me one of his looks.

He retrieved the old belt from the trash, grabbed some baling wire, then used same to stow the old belt in the snowmobile's cowling.  I asked him why he was saving that nasty old belt, since it was cracked and frayed.  I never forgot how he answered my question.  “That old belt ain't good for much, but I figure it'll get me out of the woods.”

Smart guy, my old man....

In that spirit, I recently ginned up two “get me home” jumpers for two of the safety interlock switches that can cause a no-start or a no-run condition should they fail (see here (post #473) for info on how I made higher quality jumpers for some similar switches for my KLR650's).  (Note that the discussion here applies to my bike (see my signature block)).

My Owner's Manual says:





So, a bad clutch lever switch can cause a no start condition, pure and simple.  If the bike doesn't “think” that the clutch lever is being squeezed, the engine cannot start.  On the other hand, a bad side stand switch should not prevent an engine start, providing that the transmission is in neutral.

That addresses the “start” side of the equation, but about the “run” side.  Provided that the engine is running, the clutch lever switch's condition will not prevent an already running engine from continuing to do so.  For the side stand switch, however, the bike has to “think” that said side stand is retracted (up) whenever the engine is running and in gear, or the fire will go out.

The first order of business was to make a jumper for the clutch lever switch:





Here is a look into the end of the socket connector half of the clutch switch connector.  Note that there are slots cut out for the male connector pins:





I chose to use a simple insulated fork terminal, measuring ¼” wide across the tines, for this jumper:





I twisted each of the two small tines 90 degrees so that said tines would plug into the female pin sockets pictured above.  Since the tines were a bit too far apart, I squeezed them together a bit, using a needle-nosed pliers:





Here's what the jumper looks like plugged in:





Technically, if I ever needed to use this for a clutch lever switch failure, I could disconnect said connector, plug in this jumper, start the engine, then unplug the jumper, put it in my pocket, and be on my way back home.  However, if I stalled the engine at an intersection or something, I'd feel awfully da*n dumb.  So, I plan on leaving said jumper plugged in until I get 'er home.  A small inner-tube rubber band serves well to keep said jumper in place:





Now, on to the side stand jumper...

Here is where the pertinent connector is on my bike (you are looking down on the bike with its seat removed):





Here is a closeup of same (the white rags you see are being used to prevent stuff from falling into the airbox's intakes):





On my bike, the front (socket) half of the connector has a babysh*t green wire and a black wire with a yellow tracer running to same (my FSM's wiring diagram says that the black wire has a white tracer).

Here is a look at the pin half of the subject connector.  This is the half we need to jump, since this is the half of the connector that leads to the bulk of the bike's wiring harness:





I reckoned that those pins were about the right size for some small alligator clips.  I had some insulated 1 ¼” alligator clips laying around from another project, so I used a couple of these.  If you need to get some, you can find them at Radio Shack, among other places.

I eyeballed the sizes of the wires leading into the subject connector and used a short section of similarly sized wire to make a short jumper:





(Note to self: The next time you do this, slide the alligator clip insulators over the wire BEFORE soldering the second alligator clip into place – it's just easier that way.)  Embarrassed

Here is what the finished product looks like:





And, here is what the jumper looks like when it's deployed:





All of these little bits, along with a little cheat sheet, will go into a plastic bag that will be thrown into my trunk.

One less thing to worry about....
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Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
www.astronautbiker.com
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MnSpring
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Re: Quick Clutch Switch and Side Stand Switch Jump
Reply #1 - 11/17/14 at 09:11:41
 
Excellent Idea. Smiley

Probably would have thought of that, in one of those:
"Should Have", moments !

Quote:
“That old belt ain't good for much, but I figure it'll get me out of the woods.”


I'll bet your Father had a bit of, 'incite', on the above statement  Wink
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Ben Franklin once said: "If you give up a freedom, for the sake of security, you will have neither".
Which is More TRUE, today, than yesterday.('06, S-40, Stock) well, mostly .
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verslagen1
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Posts: 28732
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Re: Quick Clutch Switch and Side Stand Switch Jump
Reply #2 - 11/17/14 at 10:04:52
 
The clutch switch is Hot
but the side stand switch is to ground.
worry accordingly.
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