Spamy wrote on 11/06/14 at 07:55:15:


If the oil bottle says that it has "Friction Modifiers" or "Fuel Saving"...you don't want to use it.  Also most modern oils have less than half the ZDDP content that is needed to keep the cap and rockers from self destructing.  This lower ZDDP level was not an issue until the EPA started to limit the amount of ZDDP used in cars that had oxygen sensors.

If the plates are contaminated with friction modifiers, it may take several miles and oil changes to get the "slippery stuff" off the clutch plates.  If the clutch is taken apart and the plates washed and lightly sanded to remove the glaze...you may have some luck using the plates again.

I jest love it when newbies start offering other newbies "sage advice" based off of their other bikes (sports bikes and dirtbikes normally) and the brand new newbie runs off to go take the "sage advice" based off that other bike and actively ignores two now three moderators AND all of the tech section to boot and goes off to spend a bunch of money.

Manny, judge whose advice to take by the number and class of the stars by their names -- it saves you trouble in the end.

Also learn how to read the Table of Contents in the Tech Section -- it has a whole chapter thing in there about the clutch, how to adjust it and what oil to feed it (and the rest of your bike).

If your clutch rod is right, your handle adjustment is right and you find you have a contaminated clutch, and you can't get Rotella to heal it over an oil change or two, read in the Clutch section how to clean and roughen your plates and try that before you go pay $70-80 for a new clutch.

If you do insist changing it out, remember Clymers lists the fiber plate thicknesses ass backwards in their little table (known error) and I really do want your old plates that you are going to throw away (I collect them, clean them up and store them -- it is a little hobby of mine).

Actually, I got two sets already sent to me by other newbies and I really do have enough of them stored up already.  

If it does serve to get you to think a bit and read the tech section, then the offer did its job.

What Heavy Duty oils for diesel engines do you have available in Guatemala?

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 11/08/14 at 03:37:59:



Haven't had a chance to go out and look but I saw this somewhere

http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/58169D196EDDCB5E80257AD...

It's Castrol CRB Viscus 15W40

It was the only one i thought was pretty close and for diesel engines... there were a couple other oils that claimed to be "specifically for motorcycles" but they were SAE 20W50 So i didn't pay much attention and i thought I'd ask first... any thoughts on that Castrol?

Spamy wrote on 11/17/14 at 15:14:16:


Right? Hey thanks man.

rickj wrote on 12/04/14 at 15:16:41:




So here's what I did:

At risk of receiving hate for being "newbies" trying to help each other... This is what worked for ME.

Someone suggested using heavy duty diesel engine oil, so i changed the oil and used Castrol CRB Viscus 15W40. I removed the clutch basket, cleaned the plates and discs using gasoline, compressed air and clean rags. I put some oil on both sides of each disc and plate during re-assembly so they wouldn't starve for lube after first crank. I made sure the center nut (32 mm i think) was nice and tight (torque specifications in the tech section) and i also put flat washers under each of the clutch springs... I figured it would add more pressure in case it needed some. I don't know which of these things did the trick but again, that's what worked for me. And it was getting ridiculous, the day before i fixed it, I rode her home and barely made it up a hill in 1st gear, just barely. Now she runs great. Whether I screwed something up that will become noticeable later... only time will tell. Good luck man, let us know how it goes.

If you have a new clutch... meh, might as well replace it, right? unless you can return it if something else makes the old one work.