I tried to look in the technical section but couldn't find anything. how do you take the little lever with spring and nut assembly apart?

most likely has loctite on it.
probably easier to remove the bolt near the valve inspection cover.
then you can pull the whole thing out.
heat should burn out the loctite.
you'll need to put the shaft back in to prevent leaking.
or find something to replace it.

Not sure why you want to take it off....you can just unhook the cable and stop using it.....most of the time.  The compression release is necessary.....sometimes.  I rode for about a year without a functioning compression release, I had built a hand lever that used a Honda CR lever up on the clutch lever mount - but it did not have enough leverage to open the exhaust valves if they were closed.  I only ride in warm weather, the bike is stored indoors, and about once out of every 50 starts the cylinder was on the compression stroke and the starter could not push the piston past top dead center....and it would just stop.  I would have to immediately let go of the starter button, put the bike in gear and roll it forward to get the piston off the compression stroke, and then put the bike back in neutral and hit the starter button.  I have a Wiseco and the starter motor just cannot push the piston over if the piston is going up on the compression stroke when you hit the starter button.

Now I built a system that uses a BMX bicycle brake lever and I had to make a longer lever for the compression release shaft to allow more cable travel.  If I stall the bike at an intersection I can pull in the clutch and compression release lever at the same time and get the bike started quickly - I would think the hand levers on the top of the cylinder and under the fuel tank would be very difficult it you needed to use it in a hurry.

If you ride when it is cold and the oil is thick and the battery is weak....a working compression release is a necessity.  Suzuki would not have put this system on if it was not necessary....they have cut costs everywhere they could on this bike.  

oh i gotcha. im not gonna remove it permanently. i jst wanna change the spring out with one that will take up the slack. there is a bit of rotation on that shaft before it actually does any work. gonna get some sort of pull knob deal for it. got my entire bike apart, figure i'd do away with the nonsense.

Boogieman wrote on 10/10/14 at 07:14:35:


Well if you are going to use a pull knob.....You better start working out with some really heavy weights!  It takes a whole lot of pull to move that lever if the exhaust valve is in the closed position....you have to lift hard enough to lift both exhaust valves off the seats....not just one.  My first attempt at a lever was not successful, as I needed to make a longer lever at the engine to get more leverage.  That electric solenoid must pull pretty darn hard!

And yes, the spring on the lever has just enough pull to return the lever close to fully returned.  It only needs to pull 5" of cable in the stock mode.

   

The rocker arm is forked....when that little decompression cam pushes on the left side......it will also be pushing down on the right side valve at the same time.  Same as the cam does - when the rocker moves it moves both valves.

You pulled up and the little cam started to touch the rocker arm - but were you able to actually get the lever to move into the upright position with your fingers?

Boogieman wrote on 10/10/14 at 13:02:18:

If you were able to pull that lever up, it was on the exhaust stroke... i.e., the cam pushed the rocker for you.

Put it in gear and work it to the compression stroke,then pull the decompression into place.