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top end rebuild (Read 485 times)
Jsud04
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top end rebuild
07/20/14 at 07:08:48
 
1986
20,000 miles
Stock except for tensioner and carb plug
Reason for rebuild, po stripped oil galley bolt leaking badly now.

Questions...

Valves, I am going to either face them and re-use or replace the valves...suggestions, part recommendations...ie springs or just valves and seals...

Cylinder, I am replacing rings, when honing the cylinder will I need to up size the piston or can I hone lightly and stay stock...

Are there any parts out side of gaskets, seals, rings that you all would recomend replacing?

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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #1 - 07/20/14 at 07:47:15
 
Jsud04 wrote on 07/20/14 at 07:08:48:
1986
20,000 miles
Stock except for tensioner and carb plug
Reason for rebuild, po stripped oil galley bolt leaking badly now.

Questions...

Valves, I am going to either face them and re-use or replace the valves...suggestions, part recommendations...ie springs or just valves and seals...

Cylinder, I am replacing rings, when honing the cylinder will I need to up size the piston or can I hone lightly and stay stock...

Are there any parts out side of gaskets, seals, rings that you all would recomend replacing?




One member has over 120,000 miles on his bike and the cylinder head has never been off.....others have been worn out with far less miles.  When the head is off you need to clean your valves and head ports and inspect them....they may not need anything if they are in good shape.

If your cylinder and piston are in good shape, you just need a light hone to create a cross hatch pattern that will help the new rings seat.
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #2 - 07/20/14 at 08:55:08
 
just fix what you need to fix and slap it back together, 20k is nothing.
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #3 - 07/20/14 at 08:59:43
 

You are indulging in a bit of overkill ....    did you even have high oil consumption or low compression that triggered you go go into the engine to this degree?

20,000 miles and typically you have just now started to use "some" oil on a high speed trip and typically have just started to slightly decline in compression.

50,000+ miles is a more typical mileage for this sort of work.


===============


Are you letting some form of "mechanic" sell you all this unnecessary rebuild stuff?

Drill and tap a new bolt into the gallery, coat the hole and the threads with silicone sealant and just very lightly tighten it into place.  

It needs no torque to speak of since it is only sealing off < 30 psi of oil pressure (and the set up sealant around all that length of thread will do that just dandy).
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #4 - 07/20/14 at 09:08:35
 
Allen drive set screw,grind short,,insert deep,fix outside threads. That will keep shavings out of the oil passage.Then do as above.
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Jsud04
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #5 - 07/20/14 at 17:14:34
 
The oil Gally bolt was stripped but for a while it had just enough bite to hold...now she just spins.

My oil usage is what most would see at 70 mph...except at 60 mph fo me. So I figures why not get time inserts in the two long bolts on that side of the engine where the one is stripped and then while I have the head off new valves and seals...or just seals...and my versy tensioner is on hole two so a new chain as well...

Then I thought while if I am going that far...why not some rings...pull the jug and have at it....my last compression test was on the lower end, but within spec...

Can I replace the rings and hone without removing the jug? I tried making a tap scene that would fit and fix the threads but it failed...
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Jsud04
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #6 - 07/20/14 at 17:21:21
 
I should add that I use oil at 60 mph  like most would a 70...but now with this oil leak...it just squirts all over...yea yea have at it... Huh
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #7 - 07/20/14 at 18:31:23
 
Jsud04 wrote on 07/20/14 at 17:14:34:
Can I replace the rings and hone without removing the jug? I tried making a tap scene that would fit and fix the threads but it failed...


Well.....no.  How are you going to get to the piston to replace the rings if you don't take the jug off? Huh
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Jsud04
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #8 - 07/21/14 at 05:31:08
 
Yup yup...stupid question... But that being said since I don't need to take it off to fix my current issue, should I do it anyway since I'm close or, should I just do valve seals, cam chain and inserts...

We can't answer that for you....you need to decide that one for yourself and the engine will give you some clues when you take it apart.  If the cylinder walls are in good shape without any visible wear - then most likely the rings and piston are good as well.

It also depends on how long you intend to keep this bike.  If you plan on selling it in the next year of two....taking the cylinder apart probably isn't necessary.  If you want to ride it to 100,000 miles plus and you have no idea how the bike was treated in the past.....maybe you should pull the cylinder do some rings since you are so close to having it apart.

Dave
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #9 - 07/21/14 at 06:53:49
 
And you're doing all this WHY,exactly? If it ain't broke,don't fix it. I'll be darned if I'd do all that because of an oil leak at a bolt.
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Jsud04
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #10 - 07/21/14 at 06:57:32
 
That bolt is running through the oil supply line for the cam. So all the oil spurts out...its really an issue that needs an insert to fix. Also that corner of the valve cover will not seal, so its leaking a far amount as well...
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Jsud04
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #11 - 07/21/14 at 07:03:01
 
Dave...the post within a post was trippy.. Shocked thanks for that. I'll post when I get in there.
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #12 - 07/21/14 at 07:39:04
 
Jsud04 wrote on 07/21/14 at 07:03:01:
Dave...the post within a post was trippy.. Shocked thanks for that. I'll post when I get in there.


Ooops.....I musta done something wrong this morning.  I guess someone fixed it, as I don't see the post I made this morning.

Dave
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Jsud04
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #13 - 07/21/14 at 08:47:52
 
You posted a response within my question above.
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Re: top end rebuild
Reply #14 - 07/21/14 at 08:50:16
 
Jsud04 wrote on 07/21/14 at 06:57:32:
That bolt is running through the oil supply line for the cam. So all the oil spurts out...its really an issue that needs an insert to fix. Also that corner of the valve cover will not seal, so its leaking a far amount as well...

Aahaa,well,that is a horse of a different color..  Yeah,you're gonna n to deal with that.
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