So I removed my exhaust to take off my side cover to check my adjuster and one of the exhaust bolts on the engine snapped. It is an 87 so no surprise. Any idea how to remove the bolt?

Oh heck,.. just shoot yourself now, and be done with it... ...

Probly bad advice... gather all yer' drills, bits, dremels, screwdrivers, vise grips, files, and hammers...
...then, shoot yerself... ...

S-P wrote on 05/21/14 at 21:33:24:


Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid.

Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid.

Douse it really good and long with a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid.


Do that, like that. Let it sit,,

Is it poking up, broke off flush, broke off down inside?

Dont touch it yet,,lets talk,

Did it turn any or did it just twist off?

Ohh,, & unless youre equipped with a bionic eyeball & an arm, youre not drilling that skinny little bolt on center.

quentin99 wrote on 05/22/14 at 12:53:14:


So if you take off the header and flange.....there is a section of bolt sticking out?

Awwrite, for future reference, When removing a bolt, especially a skinny, frail little thing, if it starts off okay & then starts fighting, STOP, put some penetrating oil on it ( see above for the recipe for the best danged penetrating oil not labelled "Top Secret" & available only to military types), turn it back the other way, douse it again, let it sit a few minutes,,REALIZE that friction = Heat , heat & friction cause galling, making a successful extraction less likely. Be Gentle, Time spent winning is better than time spent fixing Not Winning.
So,, It backed out a few turns, then just "snapped off",, Ive had that happen, even when I went at it as carefully as Ive laid out,, it can happen,,BUT, once I learned these painful lessons, it has happened a Lot less..
Now, is there any bolt sticking up? If so, how much?
If you dont have acetone & tranny fluid, ya need some. A quart of acetone is about $6.00 at the hardware store. You can save that $$$ just by refilling the wifes fingernail polish remover bottle a coupla times. Same stuff, just a vastly different price,.,Cheapo tranny fluid,,mixed 50/50, BUT, ya gotta keep it in a closed container, cuz the acetone evaporates & they separate, so ya gotta shake it up. I used an empty "Zoom OIl", cuz it has the long spout tube.. & the red cap to hold the vapor pressure.

A pic would be great

SWEET!!!,, Then take the Other bolt & look, see how many threads are still in the head..
For mow, dont touch it,, just get some of that mix put together & put some on,, I like a syringe, putting a tiny drop on, letting it work in, another drop,, let it work in,, let it sit,, keep letting oil drip in, then put a flat spot on 2 sides on the bolt, get some small,, SMALL vise grips & clamp them on. TRy to tighten the thing.. Screw it back IN,, Dont go all the wway, just a few turns & stop, add oil, add oil,, wiggle it back & forth, working the threads, Keep turning it back & forth,,adding oil, any time it starts fighting, add oil, go the other way,add oil,, wiggle, wiggle, try to bring it out 1/2 turn more every time, less, okay.,, just dont get macho,,
You can also get a little gas powered soldering pencil ( about $10.00 at Lowes) & heat the bolt, slap a coupla ice cubes on it & that can break scale up down inside,Id play with it with vise grips & oil, if that doesnt act promising, then heat,,
Maybe someone can add something, or just plain has a better idea..
Just dont get in a hurry,, wait on others,,

If there are threads exposed all the way to the end.....I can make you a "tool" that will thead over the stud....that will have a small pilot hole in it.  That way you can install the "tool" on the bolt, and then drill a small pilot hole dow the center of the broken bolt.  The hole wil allow you to squirt penetrating oil to the other side of the bolt.....or allow you to drill it out if need be.  You will have to use the tool before you put any vice grips on the broken bolt and screw up the threads.  If the threads don't go all the way to the end of the broke bolt - you would have to cut it off to the threaded portion......or I could make the tool without threads and you would just have to hold it in place while using it.

Dave

PS.  For those of you who have not had these bolts out in a while....maybe this is a good time to take one out, apply "never sieze" and reinstall it...then do the other one.

Interestingly enough. I've just had almost the exact same thing happen to me. Only difference is that I had the bolt snap about half an inch from the head.
Couple questions folks.
1. I'm looking at the bolt that didn't snap and I don't want to put it back in. It looks like an M8 x 35mm. Is there any reason for me to not replace this with stainless?
2. Will Antiseize/Neverseize work on these bolts? There is an awful lot of heat applied to them.


I have the bonus that I actually have a spare head sitting in my storage closet. I was planning on a port/polish next week. That may happen today.