The nut is an 8mm thread....with a 10mm hex.  The "double nut" method could work.....but you gotta get it lubed first.  If it broke off the head......you know it is gonna be tight.

After you lube, and lube and lube.....clean the exposed threads really well.  Then put some threadlocker on the bolt, then screw on both nuts.  Tighten them pretty tight together....then leave them alone for a few hours while the threadlocker sets.  Since the bolt broke coming out - you first need to try going in.  First apply more penetrating oil....then try to go in by only putting the wrench on the outer nut and turn inward....that tends to just make the nut tighter.....and you want to try and get the bolt to go in a little.  If you can turn it in a little....try working the bolt back and forth so the oil can be worked around.  Gradually try to turn the bolt out by placing the wrench on the inner nut....and turning out....don't force anything and definetly don't break anything.  If you can't get it out we are going to use that exposed threads to center a drill fixture on the bolt.

Yeah I went and read my silver loctite container and it says that it's good to over a 1000*. If it gets hotter than that, I have other problems.

Stainless is what I have on hand so I'll probably use that until I can get to a hardware store and get some grade 8's

Silver Grade Anti-Seize
It's a Loc-Tite product

Anything I don't want to stick I goop up with that stuff and years later it still comes apart like a dream. I've never tried it on an engine before but I'll let you know the next time I have to undo anything.  

Going to get marine grade stainless steel studs for mine, and use brass or bronze nuts. Loc-tite the studs into the head, anti-sieze on the nuts. Lowe's Home Depot, ACE, West Marine, etc should have the hardware. I'd like to replace every single fastener on both of my bikes with marine grade bronze, but finding bronze small metric fasteners is a bit of a nightmare (and expensive).

Look at 1933-60 Chrysler L6 exhaust fasteners. They do not get stuck or break very often... replicate that concept in miniature for your thumper.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 05/24/14 at 00:12:15:


I've been accused of that...  

shorty wrote on 05/24/14 at 19:42:48:


Don't tell the folks at A.R.P. or Totally Stainless that... both companies have stainless fasteners that are well beyond Grade 8 quality... it all depends on what your base alloy is and how it is worked and then tempered.

Grade 8 is good, but in many locations it is the wrong one to use. For strong side load shear resistance, you actually want a Grade 5. It will stretch where a Grade 8 will shatter.

For the piddly puny exhaust studs on a Savage, standard hardware store bolts/studs is adequate. There is no load on them, they just snug up the retainer flange. The header pipe takes the load itself.

YEEEHHAAAAA! Awesome!