Noop...  just oil n' filter... ...

Should the valves be adjusted at 600 miles?

Kenny G

Don't mess with torquing the cylinder head bolts/nuts.  They never seem to loosen up, and it requires removing the head cover to get access to some of the head studs.

You can do the valve clearance if you want.  Just be aware that if you have to move the adjustment screws more than a tiny bit......you most likely are doing it wrong.  It is not uncommon for a first time valve adjustment done by a new mechanic - to be done when the engine is at the wrong TDC and they end up loosening all the valves a bunch to get clearance.....when there shouldn't be any clearance (valve overlap).  There are 2 times the piston comes to the top of the cylinder, and one of those times the cam is holding both the exhaust and intake valves open a tiny bit - and at the other one the cam is not touching the rockers and the  exhaust and intake valves are closed.....you should be able to lightly move the rockers arms and feel some clearance on both the intake and exhaust side even before you make any adjustments.

On my bike when I got it, and on several I had ridden when looking to buy my first bike....there was a noticeable hesitation or uneven acceleration just as you began to open the throttle.  When I would go from a closed position the bike would hesitate or kind of stumble for the first 1/8th turn of the throttle grip.....if you opened the throttle a lot it would run fine.  The white spacer mod should be done it you feel this situation.

When I did rejet my bike - I found that a #50 pilot and #150 main were the ticket......and using only 2 washers on the needle instead of the standard 3.  I still had the hesitation just off idle with the 3 washers, and going to larger pilot or main jets did not cure that.....removing one washer on the needle solved the problem.