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Under engine air scoop. (Read 685 times)
uigiroux
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #30 - 05/15/14 at 15:53:15
 
So I've kinda screwed up,  but I'm fixing it.   I wanted to cover the mold in bondo to fill in the parts I over sanded and just get  a nice smooth and more solid piece that I could use to fiberglass over.   Well I didn't know how difficult that stuff is to apply.   I was  thinking I could pour some over my mold and then use a paint brush to smooth out.   Not the case,  so I have  a thick covered mold now,  and trying to sand it was so hard I just went and got a belt and disc sander along with a precision sander ($200 later at Home Depot...).

Anyways,  I'm almost done with the mold,  soon it should be  a shiny  piece getting prepped to be fiberglassed.   Pictures coming soon.
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uigiroux
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #31 - 05/18/14 at 08:34:46
 
Ok so a bit of an update.   I  completely scraped my first mold as I just wasn't satisfied with the look and I went and got a better,  more firm foam from the art shop down the street from me.   Got a block big enough to make 2 mom's for $5!  Well I started another the same way I did the first but I then realized what I was doing wrong.   My main concern is of course it has to look great,  but it has to be completely symmetrical.   I couldn't hope to do this and make an inner scoop out of one piece.   I was able to get the angles equal using the guides on the belt / disc sander as it has a way to angle the table that goes by the disc and a slide groove in there so I can follow through with my whole mold.   Anyways,  I stenciled my main design against some thinner pieces of foam I bought and when I created my inside Mills with a nice scoop and the proper angles,  well it wasn't wide enough to fit just flush with the outer side of the frame.   So I tried to recover this piece all last night and I tried doing this by fitting another stencil of the outside design against what I'd made.   No go.   We'll I was thinking about it today and I'm pretty sure I've solved my problem.   I will build the inner scoop as I did the second time,  but instead of just putting a stencil over it like I had,  I'm going to apply what I tried doing to fix it to create the right dimensions.   I'm going to cut up the stencil so there is a piece that follows the frame,  and the bottom edge,  then where I made the angle going inwards I'll apply that piece between the two and fill in the thin gaps created by angleing,  and then lightly sand it to smooth everything out.   I don't want to jinx myself like I did when I tried painting the header myself...,  but I think I might have finally found a way to make a very sweet looking mold for this bike.   And really the overall side view of it has remained very similar,  and I think it has looked great while I've had my gf hold it for me while I stand back and admire it haha.   I'm expecting tomorrow I'll finally have  a mold to fiberglass!   Very excited!
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #32 - 05/18/14 at 11:26:36
 
If ya want to make a symmetrical piece, could you make one side then use that to make a mirror image?

MMMMkay, Looka whut I done gone & found

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/casting/conversations/topics/31013

Ive seen guys build fenders on a French wheel. How they are able to make that second fender come out as a mirror image of the first is just amazing to me.

Anyway, look up making a mirror image mold & see if theres anything you can find there.

Another approach may be build one side then build sections of the other side & put them together. If an angle isnt perfect, shim the sections to accommodate that & fill the gap with, well,, play doh if ya hafta. Heck, modelling clay is out there..
You dont wanna mess with bondo on foam,, Holding the piece down
to sand it wont be easy,& unless you have experience in sanding bondo, youre just not gonna get it.

Heres a starter clue.

Say you have a Ford pickup door panel & youve got Bondo ( "mud" for future reference) from the door handle down, front to back & you can feel a high spot that drops off harder toward the front of the door & tapers off more gently toward the rear. You take your long sanding board & sand, pushing the board from the top of the high point toward the front of the door. Lots of people want to start sanding where the mud is closest to what they want & work toward the high point.. thats not gonna work.,.
So,, maybe modelling clay on a foam block & a piece of plywood to lay the piece on, some wire to put on the wood & hold next to the part & compare heights at distances from center..
You mite get a broom stick & make a few "legs" & mount them on the plywood & put holes in the foam part way, drill down, put a fat washer in & mount the block to legs.
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gizzo
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #33 - 05/18/14 at 15:52:33
 
Sounds like you're on your way, nice work man. If I could throw some unsolicited foam working advice your way it would be this:

Find some blue or pink foam. You guys use it for underfloor insulation in the states. It's hard to find in Australia. It's called XPS (extruded polystyrene) and trade names are Dow, HiLoad, Spyderfoam. It sands really nice, is easy to work with and it dissolves in petrol or thinners.

Make your plug (buck, male mould, whatever) from 2 or more slabs of the foam. Glue the slabs together with 3M77 contact adhesive. If you do this, you will have a perfect center line through the whole block to work with. Makes an excellent reference point and you wont lose it like a line drawn on the outside. The centre line makes it really easy to find the parting plane if you're building a 2 piece mould, too.

Once you have one side shaped nice, its easy to make cardboard templates to get the other side to match. Or eyeball it. Its much easier with that center line there.

If you have a car charger or 12v battery and a length of .020 stainless wire, you can easily make a hot wire cutter to block your plug out to close to the right shape. A soldering iron is handy for roughing out, making hollow sections. But do it outside. The fumes are toxic.

Sand the foam in one direction only. It helps avoid the foam chunking out.

If you're using polyester resin, seal the foam plug with packing tape. Really seal it. otherwise the resin will dissolve the plug into a puddle of goo. I use epoxy.

Sounds like you're on top of things. I just posted this in case theres something you haven't discovered. I use foam a lot, building racing gliders. Good luck buddy. Photos?
regards
s
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uigiroux
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #34 - 05/20/14 at 21:00:04
 
So I finally have my mold almost finished,  I just need to decide how to shape the top of the side fins or whatever you call em.   Here are some pics of what it's roughly going to look like.   I will smooth everything out before fiberglassing,  but this is pretty close.
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #35 - 05/20/14 at 21:00:45
 
More angles.
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #36 - 05/20/14 at 21:01:24
 
Other side.
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #37 - 05/22/14 at 16:51:51
 
So I think I've finished the mold,  here is it set up against my bike.   Thoughts,  suggestions,  before I start to glass it?
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uigiroux
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #38 - 05/22/14 at 17:26:26
 
Close ups.
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uigiroux
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #39 - 05/22/14 at 17:27:47
 
Another.   God I wish we could post more than one pic at a time...
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #40 - 05/23/14 at 05:55:04
 
uigiroux wrote on 05/22/14 at 17:27:47:
Another.   God I wish we could post more than one pic at a time...


You can:  Use www.tinypic.com

You can then just copy and past the url for the web forum (second one down) into the text of your post.
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #41 - 06/03/14 at 15:37:15
 
Do you think you'll get any cooling effect from this? Or is it purely aesthetic?
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uigiroux
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #42 - 06/03/14 at 19:23:35
 
I mainly did this for aesthetics,  but I designed it to catch a good amount of air so I think it will provide some extra cooling.
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #43 - 06/03/14 at 21:47:58
 
That shape, looks like you'll be able to make a 1 piece female mould from it. That'll make it easier for sure. Are you glassing this foam, then making a female mould from it, or a 1 off using the male mould?
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Re: Under engine air scoop.
Reply #44 - 06/03/14 at 23:01:45
 
If after all of this work you find that you'll be making more of these I would definitely be in the running to buy one. Love that look.
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