The Savage is low production, and there are not many aftermarket options.  You may have to take the stock levers and bend them yourself.  Wipe some bar soap on them, heat with a torch until the soap turns black, then quickly do some mild bending.  You can't go too far or their will not be enough travel to fully disengage the clutch or get adequate squeeze on the brake lever before it hits the grip.  You might make a drawing before hand to approximate how much you want to bend it.

I'm missing fingers on my left hand(index and middle), so I keep extra freeplay in the clutch lever. The lever still sits as far out as normal, but when I cover the clutch, I run my hand from the inside to the end of the lever, which tightens up the freeplay, by the time my hand gets to the end, it's just right, and a short squeeze to disengage.

I've also played around with different sized actuator rods, I'm using the one size larger than stock - that gives me the right mechanical advantage with the shorter lever travel.

When I did my Cafe' conversion I tried to use a smaller lever from a Honda CRF motocross bike.  The lever looked great - but the lever did not pull enough cable to fully disengage the clutch.  The Savage requires a long cable pull.  Changing only the actuating rod will not change the length of the travel that is required to disengage the clutch.  Changing the lentgh of the actuating arm that is visible outside the case is a possiblity - but it would require moving the cable mount as well and will require a more athletic grip.  The different length rods only account for clutch wear and will not change the length of the lever movement.  If you look at the clutch cover on the right side of the engine you will see an upper and lower marker cast into the cover where the clutch arm swings.  The lever need to be between those two marks when it operates, and the different actuating rod lengths are made to keep the actuating arm between those marks.

Loosen the clutch cable so that there a lot of play, and see how much slack you can get and still put the bike in gear and not have any clutch drag.  This will help you decide if you can get away with a clutch lever that is closer to the grip.

I know a lot of the sport bikes have levers with little dials to adjust the reach from the grip....it sure would be nice if you could find a pair of those that work with the Savage clutch perch and Master Cylinder.

Everything you wanted to know about the Savage Clutch but were afraid to ask:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1270678838/0#0

Thanks for that real world experience. It just seems intuitive that a longer arm would require a longer cable pull to move the end of the arm. Maybe I'm not picturing this in my hear right? On the lengthened clutch thing what part is longer?

First generation Suzuki Marauder 800 had a cable clutch. The levers will in fact direct swap with Savage levers... and you CAN find adjustable reach for the Marauder. Or wide blade levers. Or black levers. Or ball end, pointy end, etc... Look up Emgo lever sets on the internet, find the part number, and google it to find the best price.

My 2003 runs stock levers and such. My 1998 runs Vincent replica perches and levers for its cable operated clutch and front drum.