Well you certainly have some work to do.

The front end being tweaked my not be horrible....it used to happen a lot to the old MX bikes.  Loosen the fender, pinch bolts on the lower fork yoke, and the center nut on the top steering stem.  Then straddle the bike and see if you can grab the handlebars and pull the forks back into alignment.  If so.....tighten everything back up and see if you can adjust the front fender up off the tire.  Then see if the forks work smoothly up and down.

If the forks won't straighten you may need to remove the fork tubes and see if they are bent.  Most often they are bent just below the lower fork yoke.  We had a press and some wood blocks at a local cycle shop and they could straighten most lightly bent forks without taking them apart.

That all looks fairly simple.

Fender shifted on the bolts, loosen them and reset. Follow the advice above on resetting the forks, and before you tighten it up, put the front tire against your truck's tire and bounce the suspension down HARD a couple times. The parts "took a set" before your wreck, normally a few good hard bounces pops them the rest of the way back to it.

Hit the classifieds for a front peg and swap it out.

If the bag isn't holed, keep using it. Good conversation starter for Bike Night at the local wherever you guys have bike nights and/or cruise ins.

As for the tank dent... Bondo, take it to a pro, swap the tank, or live with it. It can be repaired, but, it won't be easy.

There is an "eyebrow" all the way around that dent. Packing it w/. mud wont work like you mite think,, Rental shops around here rent "Spike Guns".. They spot weld a spike that locks into a dent puller tool, so no holes get drilled.. NOW, would I do that to a gas tank? NO,, not W/O First emptying & rinsing it out & blowing the water out,& making sure there were no EX PLOsive fumes,,
Gotta get the paint outta the dent, get the tank well secured,, as in, on the bike w/ the bike secured, First gear, slack outta the belt, drive line, so it cant come forward, & tied off so you cant pull it over.

The 2 lines that were made by the upper & lower edges of the top of the triple tree will need pulled. Where the triple tree is rounded & thats the deepest part of the dent is where to start. You cant fully pull it, but start there, on the vertical line the end of the T/tree made. Work left on upper & lower lines. Tap the slide hammer out, tugging on the "spikes" gently. Dont get excited & think youre just gonna yank that dent out. Light taps, pulling, then hold back on the slide hammer & gently tap the eyebrow near the part of the dent youre working. You need a real life, no kiddin, body hammer,
Dont be surprised if the metal is stretched & needs to be heat shrunk. If you have a torch w/ a brazing tip, youre in bidniss!

IF you decide to just pack it & blend past the eyebrow, its gonne look weird, but itll be better than caved in,,IF you do that, use the coarsest sandpaper you can find. We used 40 grit on grinders to rip paint & ready metal for mud. DEEP mud needs to be laid in in thin layers, no more then 1/4 to 3/8ths &the skin taken off & textured for the next layer. "Re-bar" is a great plan,, Brazing some kinda wire low, across the dent, & then another, higher up the dent, would help keep the mud in it,
Tho, my suggestion is PUll that dent..

You mite ride around & look for a bodyshop w/ a bike parked out front,,
Youd be surprised what $100.00 & a 12 pack can accomplish,,
Dont talk to people in the office, slip in a door & strike up a conversation w/ a bodyman. Ask if anyone is doin any work on the side,, Every shop I worked in, there were a few guys rebuilding cars at home, painting & selling them, or keeping them,
OHH,, & just go get an estimate, see what it would cost to just be a customer. Thatll give you a starting spot for negotiating with a guy who is doing it at home. No need to pay the same $$$,, is there?