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› Changine the bars
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Question:
Im changing bars,should I
Drill a hole in the bar
Grind down the tab
« Last Modified by:
Yoshi
on: 02/24/14 at 17:23:22 »
Pages: 1
Changine the bars (Read 231 times)
Yoshi
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Changine the bars
02/24/14 at 17:22:36
Im getting the XLX STYLE HANDLEBARS from jpcycles.com
Lets see what you guys have to say
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Yoshi
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #1 -
02/25/14 at 03:19:52
I was thinking about drilling new holes, whats the best way to go that way?
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«
Last Edit: 02/26/14 at 03:49:24 by Yoshi
»
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Poguy11
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #2 -
02/25/14 at 05:11:03
Measure from bar end to existing hole on old bar (easy) THEN try to approximate hole position in relation to the right rotation around the new bar(not so easy).Get matching drill bit for old hole,go up one size, center punch hole location and drill. Easy peasey. Larger hole gives some play while not allowing full unintended rotation!
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Super Thumper
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #3 -
02/25/14 at 07:38:22
I have changed the bars on several Savages. Every one has been some sort of a Harley 1" handlebar that my customer wanted and I grind the tab off the control housing...works just fine...NO problems.
I even did this on my personal Savage (Harley touring bars) and the controls do NOT rotate on the bars when in use....tabs are not needed.
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arteacher
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #4 -
02/25/14 at 09:32:39
The only reason those tabs are there is to make it easier to position the switch boxes during assembly in the factory. I have had four different bars on mine, and after the second set I ground off the tabs on the switch boxes. I have had no problem with them moving, and I can position them where I want, not where Suzuki thinks they should be.
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white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt
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nickthe_human
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #5 -
02/25/14 at 09:38:10
Same here on grinding tab off. Its what I did and I have had no problems. just make sure its tightened up.
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Yoshi
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #6 -
02/25/14 at 14:46:47
Guess I'll be dremmeling them off
Thanks guys!
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seedubs1
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #7 -
02/26/14 at 05:30:27
filed mine off as well. No issues.
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ToesNose
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #8 -
02/26/14 at 06:30:52
I changed the risers and bars to more classic style euro bars, grinded those tabs off!
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Super Thumper
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #9 -
02/27/14 at 07:08:24
FYI...i bought my used Harley Touring bars on eBay for $25.00 delivered
They have the dimples on the bottom for wiring clearance from the handlebar controls...don't worry about the dimples they don't show when the bars are on the bike.
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #10 -
02/27/14 at 08:22:59
Great time to delete those bulky switch boxes and atrocious stock levers... I run 2008 Road King bars in 1970s cast aluminum dog bone risers, Knucklehead/Panhead/Vincent levers and perches. Mirrors are currently in old windshield brackets, but will be replaced with ones that mount in the lever screw holes. And the grips currently in place will be thrown in the trash and replaced with proper center swell rubber ones.
Oh, my switches are two way toggles. They and the start button are mounted in a piece of stainless steel affixed to the frame in front of the seat's left side.
Yep, that used to be a stone stock 1998 LS650PW that I started monkeying with a couple months after brand new purchase 2/2/98...
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On 2 wheels since 7/87
Black and Chrome 2003 1950s style custom
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Super Thumper
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #11 -
02/27/14 at 18:32:28
FYI again.....I replaced the Phillips head bolts that hold the handlebar controls together with stainless steel Allen head ones from Aubuchon Hardware. This makes it easier to tighten them well so they don't twist on the bars and also eliminates the stripped Phillips head syndrome
I also replace the valve lash adjustment cover bolts with Allen head ones.
There is one other Phillips head bolt that always is stuck in real good and is a pregnant dog to remove without damage.....the little Phillips head bolt with a clamp that holds the stator wire harness to the engine block just below and ahead of the stator/alternator cover. 9 out of 10 of these are stuck so bad that even with an impact screwdriver they almost always break off :'(....drill a hole in the bolt CAREFULLY so as to NOT damage the engine case and use a screw extractor to remove the broken piece and then reassemble using a stainless steel Allen head bolt from Aubuchon Hardware. Next time it has to be removed it comes right out thanks to the no-corrode stainless steel and the no-slip & strip Allen head
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Yoshi
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #12 -
02/28/14 at 04:07:41
I ground down the tabs with a dremmel last night and the new bars should be in later today
There is so much good info on this board, thanks guys
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Yoshi
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Re: Changine the bars
Reply #13 -
02/28/14 at 15:47:43
New bars feel great, no movement of the controls!!
I got the wrong muffler gasket, kinda bummed out
At least its still too cold to ride the bike
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