Where can I find good replacement Maybe a little more length . Stock ones really suck ??

Progressive makes some,  if you have $100's to spend...
Stock Sportster shocks are usually taller, and can be adapted by changing the bushing sleeves...
...or, shocks from a Suzuki 800 Intruder are 12" and bolt on... (you can find them on E-bay for 20 or 30 bucks)...

Just watch for clearance issues up at the front pulley area if you go beyond 11.5"... nothing serious... it can be fixed with just a little grinding on the upper beltguard, and replacing one sidecase screw with a roundhead...

What kind of difference in feel of the bike would more weight on the front end create? This is my fist road bike (I had a dirt bike when I was younger), so I don't know what better shocks would really feel like. Could anyone try to give an example? Because I've heard plenty of you say the stock shocks suck, but (from my inexperience) I don't understand why.

Steering will be a bit slower with the extra weight shifted forwards. The front end is going to feel heavy and a bit slow compared to the stock ride height rear shocks.

If you ride the least bit aggressively, even with them set on maximum spring preload, you'll bottom out the stock shocks. Any road rougher than riding over a handful of soggy cigarette butts. Unless you are extremely light weight yourself. They'd be fine on a 100cc or smaller Lifan or similar baby bike.

The factory rear shocks are one of Suzuki's known design errors. Along with the vacuum petcock, flawed timing chain tension controller, weak stator, and hygroscopic spark box... yep, the electronic ignition is not waterproof... supposed to be, but it isn't.

Spark box is easy to seal up, gray rtv around the posts or a simple application of di-electric grease (preferred) around the posts. There is a guy on Do The Ton that has figured out how to replace the expensive black box with a $20 GM HEI control module. Solved all the running issues on his early 80s GS300, black box for those bikes is made of unobtainium...

The last hurdle to calling the Savage a good motorcycle is the low output stator. Everything else has a work around. Delete the safety switches, Raptor petcock, go up one size on the jets, Intruder rear shocks, type F atf as fork oil (at own risk, some seals will break down in it), V Star 950 rider seat, Dyna muffler, HD handlebars, GM HEI module... All contribute to turning a cute little toy into a functional motorcycle.  

Lancer might have some or know the part no.
But contact Progressive and they should be able to tell you the part no.

The difference is not much.  I was able to get dimensional tubing to fit the ID of the sportster shocks and fit the savage mounting posts.

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I bought a length of stainless steel hydraulic tubing at an auto parts store (NAPA).  The ID was perfect with just enough clearance.  I never did press them into the rubber bushings of the Harley shocks because at the time I didn't know if I would like the change and wanted to keep the Harley shocks in good shape since I know a couple guys who could use them.  So I made my own rubber bushings out of a piece of thick rubber hose using a lathe.  It works.

The Harley Sportster shocks are great for my 170lbs and some day I'll get around to pressing the stainless sleeves into the proper rubber bushings.  Handling is improved with these shocks.  They are an inch longer than stock and that boost in the height of the rear end, reduces the trail and rake angle slightly which makes the steering a little quicker, not much but it feels better.  Best of all is that I have not bottomed out since I put them on and it prevents some seriously hard jolts to the spine.