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Cold belt...... (Read 554 times)
Serowbot
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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #45 - 02/18/14 at 09:36:32
 
Here's a pic of the amount of bevel I put on my belt...
It's been running like that for 25k miles, so there's no harm...
I used an angle grinder with the rear wheel lifted, and spun the belt around by hand... (it ain't too pretty, but it does quite it down)...

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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #46 - 02/18/14 at 09:51:33
 

Mine has a more shallow angle and I stopped at the root of the tooth

(only the flat wide part was left unsanded).

You can see from the rough grind marks that your belt wasn't very tight when you ground it, and it wasn't moving very fast either.

Using a sanding disc on the same grinder can give a smoother surface.

Still, the free load and unload bevel action does stop the flat side squeak, now don't it .....


==================


Here is a pic of an old, many miles side ground belt, showing all the polish that takes place as the miles roll past.    

It also shows the Bando belt's original construction style, the cloth supported tooth surface, the raw plastic inner core of the teeth (the part that makes the squeak) and the cord and fabric nature of the thin flat section that carries the load.

Sero, your belt looks a bit like a toothed rubber belt ???

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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #47 - 02/18/14 at 10:22:03
 
beveled by mishap... the lower belt guard was kicked in causing the belt to bevel.
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Serowbot
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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #48 - 02/18/14 at 16:53:23
 
Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 02/18/14 at 09:51:33:
Sero, your belt looks a bit like a toothed rubber belt ???

Nope,.. mine's the same,.. you just can't see any of the cord in that particular spot... it is showing a bit in some others...
I think I didn't grind as deeply as you did...
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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #49 - 02/19/14 at 03:57:20
 
I have come to find body fluids work very well in quieting it down, and I don't have to run back into the house to empty before I mount, a twofer sorta  Grin
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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #50 - 02/19/14 at 05:26:37
 
Last night I was thinking about how to make a bushing.....and I got thinking about some very sturdy aluminum tape I have.  The tape is made for sealing duct work, and it is fairly thick aluminum with an adhesive and a paper backing.  You peel the paper off and stick the alumunum on the duct joint.  Since the interface between the pulley hub and wheel hub is a broad area the load will not be spread out uniformly - it might be possible just to use this tape and a little grease or sticky chain wax to take up the extra clearance.
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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #51 - 02/19/14 at 05:44:57
 

Tape would be good in that if you got some sudden spot load the tape could give a little and let the balls and the race survive the spot load.

I like Dave's very meticulous, very thorough approach to things.   His bike is wonderful for having a variety of neat tricks, clean executions and completely reliable performance.

His is the only frankie bike that "just runs like Linux" and looks like a million dollars while doing so.


..... and that is high praise coming from me
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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #52 - 02/28/14 at 05:39:46
 
Well Oldfellor was right.  The bearings from 2 of the pulley hubs I have are from bikes with unknown mileage, and they do have some noticeable play in them.  The bearings have been subject to some eccentric loads while in use, and they have developed some clearance and wobble that is probably not in a new one.  I have a low mileage bearing in the pulley hub that is from my bike....and I may buy a new bearing if they aren't horribly expensive.  The pulley hub bearing is about twice the size of the wheel bearings.



I bought some brass from Online Metals to make a bushing for the pulley hub.  My goal is to make the fit between the wheel hub and pulley hub one that will not allow the pulley to wobble and wear out the bearing.  This brass has a 2" OD and a 1.75" Id.



I then mounted my pulley hub on the lathe and machined the hub so the 1.75" brass ID would be a tight fit onto the pulley hub.



Then I installed the brass and machined it to be around 1.784", which is a slide in fit into the wheel hub.




I will put the bearing and seal back in the pulley hub, then fit it back into the wheel hub to see if the wobble is gone.  I currently have all the rubber spacers out of the wheel hub so I can check the fit without the rubber interfering with the results.  It does look like this will go a long way toward eliminating the wobble, and keeping the pulley hub bearing tight for a lot more miles.

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Re: Cold belt......
Reply #53 - 03/03/14 at 06:15:01
 
I was able to get things back together this weekend.  I stopped by the local auto parts store and got a brand new bearing.  The pulley hub bearing is a 25x62x17 and the auto store got me a brand new one for $ 8.10 including tax....the factory part is almost $ 30.  The bearing they got me is a sealed bearing from Federated, Part number PTC 305ss....works for me!

With it all bolted together in the bike - the pulley wobble is completely gone!  I can rotate the pulley just a tiny amount and feel the rubber snubbers come into contact with the pulley hub, which confirms the pulley hub can freely rotate as it should - but it does not wobble anymore.

I think this fix will work great - now it is in the durabitiy testing stage.  Maybe brass is not the right thing to use as a bushing with aluminum and a harder metal would have been better - but a few hundred miles and I should be able to tell.

If it works this is a great solution for anyone with access to a lathe.  The brass was only a couple of dollars from Online Metals - getting access to a lathe is the only difficult part of this fix.
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« Last Edit: 03/03/14 at 08:07:25 by Dave »  

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