Greetings gents!

So now that the cold has arrived in the northeast I have started the long list of things I wanted to do to Suzy throughout the year. She's a 2003 we have had for a year or so.

- I bought a dyna muffler a few months ago
- I bought a versy cam chain tensioner
- switching the oil from Mobil tvwin synth to rotella T 6
- needed to replace front brake cable. No problem.

So my entire muffler was rusted. Finally with tons of wd40 specialist penetrant I was able to get it removed. If you have not tried this stuff I highly recommend it. The liquid wrench stuff would not do the job.

Taking off the two header connection bolts, one of them snapped off. I think it may have been stripped going in last time someone removed it. It came out half way then just locked up. Then snapped. Dooougghhhh!

I went ahead and did the versy cam chain tensioner with no issue. It was great to open up the clutch cover, because in my mind everything In there was rusty and worn out. But alas in reality it looked well oiled, hermetically sealed and factory beautiful. Except the factory cam chain tensioner which was darn near done and close enough to popping out, that I was glad I didn't wait any longer!

I was finAlly able to separate the header pipe from the factory muffler using tons of wd40 penetrant and a rubber mallet.

So now I can follow the instructions for putting the dyna on.

However, I'm stuck with this broken bolt. Where the header meets the block.

I started drilling it out, but am afraid that at the accessible angle I might accidentally drill into the block.

I have already ordered 2 new replacement bolts from bandit. Along with a new gasket.

Has anyone been in this predicament? Is there anything else I can try before I have to trailer the bike to a shop with my tail between my legs and pay more to have it fixed that  I payed for the bike itself?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks!

I am with Verslagen on this one.  The only way to get this out reliably is to mount it on a milling machine or drill press and do it right.  Any attempt to do it by hand will likely not succeed.  If the bolt is so tight that it snapped off the original bolt......you are not likely to get it out with an easy out.  The bolt will have to be drilled hollow and the thread collapsed into the hole.....not easily done by hand.  If the threads cannot be saved, then an insert will be necessary, and there is not much room to play with.

You might also consider a replacement cylinder......they are not horribly expensive for a good used one, and you might find one cheaper than the cost of the machine shop work.

Dave  

A pic would help... is the bolt snapped flush?, or is there any sticking up?...

If you have some bolt to grab onto, then do as Justin said.  Or, you could weld a nut onto it and use that.  Works better than Vise Grips, if you have access to a welder.

If it broke flush with the head, the same thing happened to me - click the link.  I ended up drilling it out, re-tapping the hole, and using some studs and nuts instead of new bolts.  

Good luck!

Thanks all for the advice. In short, no luck.

The bolt had snapped unevenly, and not even flush with the hole. it's a bit recessed and the first few threads of the hole are exposed and trashed. So attaching a nut, vise grips, or anything else was impossible.

It looks like the threading is all jacked up inside too. Guessing that happened on the way in and that it stripped going in and some muscle man just powered it in. Drilling it out failed horribly. I'm sure I made it even worse.

IF the hole is completely trashed, and I managed to drill out and extract the remnants of the bolt, is there still a way to do what you did in your post?
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1375534214/0#0


Thanks again!

Seriously, if you have no experience in this area, the odds of you winning & not tanking the head go way down, I think youd be ahead to stop trying to fix it & take it to a machine shop.,. At least go visit with someone, take pics. Ride around, look for a shop that does engines, hope to see one with a bike parked out front, Youd be surprised how easy goin some of those guys are.. Not that theyre likely to do it for free, but theyll give ya clues & tell you if they need the head off the engine if you cant do it. , etc,,

One thing about it, as long as you get a stud in close to "On-Line" with the original, it otta work,,If you have to drill out the collar & go a little bigger with a stud, I dont see that as a big deal, You CAN win it, but I wouldnt even try it in the frame,, Get that thing out where you can get youself positioned & drill strait down, Empty the oil, stand it up. Build whatever you have to build to support it,
The penetration oil mix( tranny fluid/acetone) is supposed to be better than anything you can buy, Acetone evaporates, so mix small amounts.

There is only one way that I can think of to do the work on the bike without taking the engine out.  I started to type it all out - but then if you don't have the tools I would be wasting a lot of time typing.  If you have access to a drill press, and a lathe, and the proper drills, taps and insert tools - you can make a jig to drill the hole in the proper place.  It would involve making a plate that can be bolted to the remaining stud, and the plate would use the exhaust port and the remaning stud to positively locate the point to drill out the existing bolt.  The plate would be made with a threaded boss over the bad stud.  First you would thread in a piece that has a 1/8" hole in the center....and you would drill a 1/8" hole down the center of the broken stud.  Then you would remove that piece and thread in an insert with a hole that allows you to drill just slightly smaller than the stud, and hope you can pick out the remaining thread pieces.  If that doesn't work, then you drill it oversize and put in a proper thread repair insert.  You need the tapping tool and inserts.  If you can find a machine shop to do this for you.....they might be able to do it with the engine still in the frame.

Welding the pipe on gives me the shivers!  Something cheap could go wrong in the clutch case and yer screwed and looking at a whole new bike or engine.