I hope someone of you guys this may help.. you can save a few dollars if you do gaskets for motor independently. here are pictures of gaskets..
http://cs314129.vk.me/v314129114/69c0/xSKKanIP3-0.jpg
http://cs314129.vk.me/v314129114/69c9/NawDCSUL1OI.jpg
http://cs314129.vk.me/v314129114/69d2/cGoLJpv3NqA.jpg
this can be done from paronite thickness of 0,5mm
good hunting!

If I have to make a gasket, I don't transfer measurements.

Place the gasket material over the flange surface. Get a hammer and lightly tap the gasket material around the edges of the flange and over any holes in the flange surface.  This makes an outline of the flange in the gasket material.  Now simply cut the gasket out, using the impressions as your guide.

The hammer method is just a general example.  I have done it for small gaskets like auto thermostat housings and the like.  I just used normal paper sheet gasket material for that.

When replacing the cam chain adjuster on my Savage with a versy-style extended adjuster, I ordered a clutch cover gasket.  It was cheap enough, about $15, I think.  No sense in working too hard to create an already cheap and easy-to-obtain gasket.

Fortunately, I was able to re-use the existing gasket, since it was installed without any sealant and came off in one piece.  When I sold my Savage, I forgot to give it to the buyer.  It wasn't worth my time to resell it on Ebay, so I gave it away on this forum.  I forget who I sent it to, but he was in Hawaii.

Ive done the "Light bump on the gasket" thing,, Cutting out the lines on a clutch cover? Theyre kinda narrow & irregular & floppy. I guess I COULD do it, if I was in Wambrs spot,, But, for $14.00,, being in a place where I can walk in, ask for the gasket, wait about 10 minutes & pay for it? Naaaah,,
Last nite I was making a thermostat gasket. The guy didnt even HAVE a ball pein,, I hadda find bolts that went thru the holes in the gooseneck, smack them ( with them in the holes, on the gasket material, layin on the vise) to mark the hole, Kinda, then look in & see how it lined up, then I found sockets that fit close & hammered them thru the gasket material. Once I got the 2 bolt holes & the bypass hole done, I used bolts to hold it in place on the block & used a small claw hammer to "Show me the line", then I marked it with a fine ink pen & had the guy cut it out kinda close, I dressed it with a dremel,, Yea,, he isnt much of a mechanic,, Ive never seen ANYONE lose so many bolts,, he is a nice guy, but Very disorganized in his approach to taking things apart,,

what thickness gasket material would be ideal for replacing the stator and clutch?

Its a solid engine, but would 1/64 material be too thin for any imperfections?

How about for the cylinder and head gaskets, I dont want to screw around with the compression ratio, what is the ideal material thickness?

verslagen1 wrote on 11/26/13 at 15:10:36:



just to be sure i completely understand.

.02 paronite is the proper thickness to replace the head and cylinder gaskets?

.02 paronite is the proper thickness to ensure a good seal on the clutch and stator?

I have 1/64 karropak which is roughly .016.
I can true the cylinder and head if really needed, just cant do that for the transmission surfaces...

Low compression engines like lawn mower and tiller, a sheet of cardboard like from a t-shirt pack works just fine.  Never had one blow yet.

Dunno about the bike, though.  The few times I have removed a head, I always bought the head gasket for them.

I make may gaskets but when it comes to one with oil or water under pressure passing through them, I normally buy so I don't have to worry.