Here is the link to my build......the triple tree work is included in that thread.  It was a lot of work....it would be interesting to ride another RYCA and see how differently they handle.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1358099938/0

I did the triple tree conversion to bring the forks closer to the steering stem, and to allow me to drop the fork tubes to lower the front end without installing the stops.....I wanted to keep my fork travel and reduce the harsh ride and limited travel the spacers can cause.  It might be easier to adapt an entire triple tree/fork/front wheel assembly from another bike.

MrPazloe wrote on 10/22/13 at 10:42:22:


Well....I am used to dirt bikes with aluminum rims that take a hammering and not sure about road bikes with steel rims.  But at least once a year I check the spoke tigbtness and check to see if they are true.  The light aluminum rims on trials bikes are very soft and need a lot of attention.

Jack the front of the bike up and secure it, then spin the wheel and see if the wheel and tire are true.  Check the spokes by tapping on them, and they should have a nice "ping" sound to them when you lightly tap them with a wrench.  Any loose ones will make dull "thud".  Get on YouTube to search how to tighten and true a wheel......if is explained very well in most of those videos.

The T-Kat brace only helped a little.  While on the interstate at 70-75 mph, the thing is still oscillating back and forth a little,.. it's more something you can feel rather than see.  
-- It's enough, though, that it feels like if I let go of the grips, it would turn into a tank-slapper.
-- When I put a lot of force on the grips, either pulling or pushing, the oscillation stops,... which tells me there might be a slight bit if movement on the front wheel from side to side and that the additional mass (arms and upper torso) more firmly attached to the grips is changing the resonance of that movement/oscillation.

I'm wondering if a steering stabilizer/damper might settle this down.  The big time crotch rockets often come with these units as standard equipment.  Ebay has them from $40 to a few hundred bucks.  

I can think of two other reasons why you may be wandering in a straight line:
Tyre profile: I've had a squared off rear tyre cause a weave between 70 and 80 on a gs550l before. A new rear tyre cured it. No problems in corners or below that speed. It got rather alarming but you could ride through it if you kept it nailed (I was V stupid when younger). I do wonder about the 'classic' tyres people are fitting to ryca's and whether they may cause similar problems...

Steering bearing wear: If you didn't replace or check the tapered roller head bearing recently then check now. If it wears out, it creates a groove in the race in the center steering position. This means that when going straight you're constantly trying to push the roller out of the groove to travel in a straight line. (hope that makes sense)

Andy