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Starting up an old 1986 savage (Read 315 times)
NCSUindy09
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #15 - 09/25/13 at 05:37:14
 
Alright yeah I read about the TEV last night and I thought it might be the culprit but I didn't want to assume that was it.  I'll have to wait until tomorrow to fiddle with it.
Thanks
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1986 Savage, 18k Miles. Cone air filter, drilled & wrapped exhaust. Stock carb and jets. Daily commute bike.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #16 - 09/25/13 at 07:24:59
 
Just read up on it. Ifyou can controil the problem by NOt letting the throttle slap shut & by raising the idl;e up a hair,, then thats a win,
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NCSUindy09
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #17 - 09/27/13 at 07:47:12
 
So I followed a guide on proper tuning and hey guess what, it runs perfectly now.  No backfires and it doesn't knock off.  I took it for a few little test rides down the gravel driveway but since it's not street legal and I don't have a moto license so I haven't been on a road yet.  There's just a few more things I need to look into to feel safe riding this bike, mainly tires and brakes.  

Here's my todo list:
The rear tire doesn't have much tread left so I think I will replace that.  
I need to check the front and rear brakes (how?) and do work if needed.
The oil/filter needs changing.
The horn barely works, but that's easy to replace.
I ordered a raptor660 petcock, so I'll put that on when it gets here.
The forks still need work and the seals replaced.
Some major polishing/dusting needs to be done.


How can I test whether or not I need to do work on the brakes?  So far I've been using mainly the front brake and it has worked fine (<25mph).  Both brakes work.  I'm not used to driving a motorcycle so I'm not really sure which brake to use all the time  Grin

Also, I really don't think I want to change the back tire myself.  I don't think I have the proper tools or expertise to do it well.  I'm thinking about just taking the back tire off the bike and taking it and the replacement tire to a tire shop to have them switched out.  I could do any rear brake work while I'm at it.

Again, I want to thank everyone on this forum for providing all the information needed to get this bike running again.  It has been so much fun working on it.  I can see myself as a lifetime motorcycle fixerupper/rider now.  I feel good about how much work I've done to this bike coming from almost no mechanical background.  
Thanks,
Ryan
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1986 Savage, 18k Miles. Cone air filter, drilled & wrapped exhaust. Stock carb and jets. Daily commute bike.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #18 - 09/27/13 at 16:34:31
 
The horn barely works, but that's easy to replace.

Some  horns have a screw that affects how the diaphragm wiggles.,.,

You can look at the front brakes & see how much is left on the pads.
Its a smaller version of a cars disk brake. Make sure it "floats" on the pins,, pry the pad away from the disk & drive the Puck into the caliper body then see if iti can move on the pins,

Whatrear brake work? Dang rare that those wear out,,biggest issue is they hold so well therear tire slides. I cut grooves in mine with a grinder.
Probably took 1/3rd of the contact area out, much easier to use,
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The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke.
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Digger
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #19 - 11/25/13 at 18:56:12
 
mpescatori wrote on 09/23/13 at 02:20:04:
.....4. I advise against using a car battery for the bike's electrical system, it has such a huge surge current you could fry wires right through,
whereas a small (moped or similar) 12V battery will eventually only fry the fuse  Wink.....



Good post, except for the old wive's tale that I've quoted above.

A battery the size of Manhattan would be safe to use on our Savages, as long as it was a 12 v. battery.

So, any 12 v. car battery would be safe to use.....as long as the car's engine was NOT running.....

IHTH someone!
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Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
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Kris01
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #20 - 11/25/13 at 20:04:12
 
I was curious about this as well.  12V is 12V!  A car's alternator puts out WAAAY too many amps.  It's the car's alternator, not the battery, that will fry the electrical system.
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There's no problem that a full tank of gas and a sunny day can't fix!

2008 S40, Rotella T 15W-40 w/ZDDP added, Dyna, 140/90-15, Battery Tender Jr., Seat lift, #52.5/150/3 washers, Raptor
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verslagen1
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #21 - 11/25/13 at 20:44:34
 
let's see... 12v is 12v... check
a car alternator puts out too many amps... but 12v is 12v... right?
or 14v while its running... same as a savage.
maybe there's too much noise?
too rough on the typical 1000v insulation?   Huh

true, batteries alone have internal resistance which will limit current.

if anything would be sensitive to a "car running voltage/amps"
I'd have to say it would be the regulator.
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Dave
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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #22 - 11/26/13 at 04:09:32
 
I don't think that any 12v Battery will hurt anything....the starter will only pull as many amps as it needs regardless of battery size.  If there is a system fault however.....a bigger battery will provide more energy to cook whatever is shorted/faulted.

The "old wives tale" about not having the car running must be true on occasion.....just ask this fellow.

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?133183-94-ST1100-Black-NON-ABS

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Someday I will be old......But not today!

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Re: Starting up an old 1986 savage
Reply #23 - 11/26/13 at 12:53:14
 
Regarding the fork seals. I would try this first - http://sealmate.net/

One side of mine was leaking pretty bad and this little fella did the trick. If it doesn't work then its only a few bones lost...if it does work then its a ton of time saved.

Good work on all you have done. Keep it up.

--Skip
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