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Update: new clutch installed, fixed (Read 948 times)
justin_o_guy2
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What happened?

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Re: Update: clutch destroyed, Theories n help welc
Reply #45 - 09/02/13 at 19:40:29
 
How much slack was in the clutch lever before the clutch bit th weenee?
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Oldfeller--FSO
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Re: Update: clutch destroyed, Theories n help welc
Reply #46 - 09/03/13 at 07:12:04
 

Turn to page 150 in Clymers, look at item 18 and 19.

If one of your big thin "wave washers" isn't tilted (belvilled) or waved (as in waffle washer), then it has overheated, lost temper and failed (went flat) during your big slip event that destroyed your clutch.  

Or else the factory put in two flats instead of one flat and one waved.   Wouldn't be the first time Suzuki screwed up at the factory .....

In any case, put it back together with the right parts.  The wave washer has to push the clutch plate (20) out, so think about the orientation that makes that happen the absolute best.  This counts more if yours is a tilted belville style washer more than the simpler waffle wave type that has been used in some year models.

Turn to page 157, item #9

"Install the wave washer (figure 40) with the concave side facing outward." refers to the belville style washer.


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« Last Edit: 09/03/13 at 09:00:54 by Oldfeller--FSO »  

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Dave
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Re: Update: clutch destroyed, Theories n help welc
Reply #47 - 09/03/13 at 10:02:20
 
Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 09/01/13 at 19:15:34:
Dave went EBC about a year ago and had issues with being sent wrong springs -- he got it corrected but it was a delay in his engine build.


Well.....I might be a bit late to this clutch party!

I wasn't delayed getting my bike back together....but the EBC spings made the clutch slip.  The parts that EBC has listed for our bike is wrong, and the springs they list are actually weaker than the stock ones....and the clutch slipped with even a light throttle.  I took the cover off and put the stock springs back in.....and it worked.  This wasn't all bad....it made me have to be gentle on the new piston and cylinder bore for a while!  I contacted EBC and eventuallly they got me the right springs....but I am not sure they are convinced and changed their catalog yet.  I have not installed the EBC springs as the stock ones are working fine.  I can supply the correct numbers once I go home and check the numbers.

I am not entirely sure what happened to the clutch in this topic.  Kizale  stalled and restarted and had trouble getting the bike going....then the trouble showed up.  It may have been that the clutch damage was done in this one incident if the cltutch was abused....with our without the wrong oil or additives.  The first photographs of the clutch don't seem to show the horrible burned plates that are seen in the photos after the clutch rod incident.  (If I were to speculate........and please don't take offense Kizale as I am trying to help.....but do you know what a slipping cutch feels and sounds like?  Is this our first bike.....are ou a new rider?)  I might think that the clutch did not have adequate free play and the clutch slipped badly during the "stalliing in traffic" inciident.....and may have overheated the clutch and the damage begain.  The damage was then completed after the "too long" rod was installed.

Where do you live Kizale?  There might be a forum member in that area that can help with the clutch repairs?

 
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Re: Update: clutch destroyed, Theories n help welc
Reply #48 - 09/03/13 at 15:14:14
 
I live in central pa. The bike was never run with a longer rod, it broke down with the stock one. I took it around the block with a shorter one in to test it and when that did not work I torn it down and found the condition of the plates.

As far as the rings go do u mean to say the concave ring/ side facing out, followed by the flat, then the alternating disks. Ordered from furthest out to closest to the engine. Sorry I do not have a manual yet just got the bike, took it on one ride and this happened.
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Re: Update: clutch destroyed, Theories n help welc
Reply #49 - 09/03/13 at 15:16:39
 
Any other tips for getting it back together,I'll soak the disks first. Does anyone have torque specs?
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Re: Update: clutch destroyed, Theories n help welc
Reply #50 - 09/04/13 at 10:01:57
 

Don't you have a Clymers manual?
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #51 - 09/09/13 at 17:58:26
 
Still having problems unfortunately.  I did get a clymers and new clutch parts. I used the steel discs from a forum member and new ebc discs. I installed everything according to what I read , everything fit together nice no leftover parts or anything silly.I connected the cable , filled it with oil and fired it up. The problem is it will not work when I pull the lever. It has good tension on it but would not go into gear. Shut it off and with the bike in gear and clutch in it will not roll. I took it apart again and reinstalled with the used stock discs I got along with the steels and same problem. I also checked everything when  I did it again and with the same result I can rule out ebc disks as a problem. With the pressure plate off the clutch assembly(inner, disks and outer will move back and forth together in the clutch basket. With the springs and pressure plate on it is firmly held in place. The 45mm rod put the lever right in the middle of the index. Any suggestions on what to do from here?
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justin_o_guy2
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What happened?

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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #52 - 09/09/13 at 19:48:12
 
The clutch lever feels right?

Would not go into gear,,

Grinding? Any noises?
\Can you get it in gear, engine off?
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #53 - 09/10/13 at 07:02:16
 
The lever does feel fine. With the engine off i can get it into gear but I will no roll with the lever pulled in. With in running it just grinds if I try to get it into gear. It seems it like it will not disenguage, the rod is in and the 45 puts it right between the index marks like it should.
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #54 - 09/10/13 at 08:14:41
 
You may not have the wave washer and the flat washer correctly installed.
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #55 - 09/10/13 at 12:01:43
 
I installed with the flat washer on the out side and the wave on the inner. the smaller diameter facing the outside and against the flat one, bigger opening aginst the first disc. Correct?

Any other sugestions?
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #56 - 09/10/13 at 13:27:56
 
the wave washer needs to be trapped between steel parts
not sure what end goes out, so if it's not working for you...
try the other way.
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #57 - 09/10/13 at 14:11:36
 
Hmm the way I read it in the book was (starting outside and moving in towards the engine) Hub/clutch sleeve, seat/flat washer, wave washer/concave washer, disk 1. At this point I'd be happy to be wrong and have it fix the problem. So are you saying the wave washer should be between steel parts meaning, Hub, followed by wave washer and then the seat/flat to the inside of it, basically sandwiching the wave? If so do you also know which way to face the wave, I guess I could be wrong on that too. I had hub, seat, wave, disc 1/larger disk. It was sitting on disk 1 like this

 /   \
--------

Smaller part in on the hub larger opening on the disc, hope that makes sense, is hard to put into words.

Another thing I noticed is with side cover on, no oil, not running it won't move in gear, with lever in it does not want to move but with a little push it will then break free and roll. Does it need to be broken in at all. I only let it run for a couple secs and when it grinded into gear I fearfully shut it down. So it seems to drag like either it's getting fully pushed out or it could need lube, the longer rod however pushed it out of spec on the index. Maybe with oil in and running for a couple it will loosen up, or maybe the wave washer issue will fix it. I hope so, I think the next set if this doesn't work is setting it on fire.

Again thanks for all the help.  Smiley
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #58 - 09/10/13 at 15:36:31
 
Maybe it's worth pulling out the clutch lever itself and having  a look there? I know theres probably nothing wrong with only 3000m on board, and it looks ok in the picture, but you never know. Maybe thers a plastic bush or something in there that collapsed. The clutch on my DR250 was going the same way as yours and was down to the  bolt hole in the lever elongating through wear. New lever fixed it. Taking up the slack in the hole used up too much cable travel for the clutch to fully let go.  Just looked at my one, theres a plastic bush surrounding the cable nipple at the lever. Is yours still there?
I'm clutching ( Grin) at straws, but maybe it's worth a look?
Good luck anyway. Hope you get it sorted.
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Re: Update: new clutch installed, still not workin
Reply #59 - 09/11/13 at 10:20:02
 
I'll flip the wave washer tonight and see what happens. According to the book it looks like the seat should be against the hub
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