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Update: new clutch installed, fixed (Read 948 times)
WD
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #15 - 08/25/13 at 08:31:01
 
Jog has a good point there, while the cover is off, flush the clutch out. Get the bike upright, I tend to use a cinder block and chunk of 2x12 under the engine, put a pan under the clutch basket, and hit it with a can of electrical cleaner (which will not eat the discs, unlike carb cleaner and some brake cleaners).

Even if you put in the "wrong" oil, 25 miles isn't enough distance to hurt the clutch to the point of not working. Not really enough distance to induce even minor slipping...
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #16 - 08/25/13 at 09:40:29
 
I don't think oil has anything to do with it. There was Suzuki brand 4 cycle from the dealer in it when I had the problem. In the course of trying to fix it I changed to mobil 1 v-twin, made no diff.

Updates:
I put the side cover back on to see where I land on the index marks. I am actually below the lower one. There is just a slight amount of play but if I pull it up to the point of resistance and let go it sits right on the lower line. Does this mean I should change out the rod, if so with a longer or shorter one? I measured the one in there to be sticking out about 12mm. Or is this a sign of deeper problem with the clutch. Also with the side cover bolted back on and no oil in, it is able to be freely rolled in gear again which is not good. Here is a picture of where it sit on the index marks.
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #17 - 08/25/13 at 09:51:13
 
Kizale wrote on 08/25/13 at 09:40:29:
There is just a slight amount of play but if I pull it up to the point of resistance and let go it sits right on the lower line.


Don't let go, pull up to take the slack out and that's where you compare the marks.
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #18 - 08/25/13 at 09:58:55
 
What I mean to say is that I did pull it up and it sits right on the lower line. It has a little wiggle and I could push it below that but if I pull it up to take the slack out it will right on the lower line.
Also with the cover back on it will roll in gear again.
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #19 - 08/25/13 at 10:04:55
 
I think your clutch rod is too long
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #20 - 08/25/13 at 10:15:49
 
seems like it could be. I just wonder how it could go from working fine one minute to being to long and leaving me stranded the next. Could it indicate another problem inside.
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #21 - 08/25/13 at 10:47:43
 
no, pretty sure it's an external problem   Grin
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #22 - 08/26/13 at 15:29:21
 
I ordered a new set of rods, I'll give them a try tomorrow and let you know. I'm just worried that it has another issue. I just can get my head round how it could all the sudden be to long and leave me on the side of the road mid ride.
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Re: need clutch help please
Reply #23 - 08/31/13 at 06:31:57
 
Update:

I installed the 44mm rod from the kit I ordered. When I put the side cover back on it seemed to be working, would lock in gear and release when I pulled the lever. I put it all back together and started it, it had a nasty grinding noise coming from the clutch side area. I mess with the adjustment down at the lower lever coming out of the case. I had to turn it almost all the way up so there was almost no threads on the bottom below the lever and a ton on top. This made the noise stop and held the lever between the index marks so it looked good. I took it around the block and it will move under it's own power. As soon as you give it any gas it will slip completly and freely rev in gear with no more power to the wheel. I have longer rods but by my thinking it will make it worse, what should I do at this point? Thanks
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Re: Update: need clutch help please
Reply #24 - 08/31/13 at 07:08:10
 

You need to MEASURE the rod you are starting with, then put in the one that is slightly shorter.

Obviously, the 44mm is too short.  

What length did you start with?

===========================



"I had to turn it almost all the way up so there was almost no threads on the bottom below the lever and a ton on top. This made the noise stop and held the lever between the index marks so it looked good."


Also, you apparently completely MISUNDERSTAND the rod adjustment steps -- it has nothing to do with where the lever goes when you pull on it with the clutch lever.   Your helper people are showing you pictures with the clutch cable completely removed with A RUBBER BAND "pulling on it" and are discussing that, not what you do with the clutch cable and clutch lever in action.

Once you get it right with the rubber band test, you are done -- forget about the clutch rods, your rod is right.  

After that, you adjust the clutch lever position using either the handle bar adjuster or the one over the lever -- you are seeking approximately 1/4 free space on ether side of the clutch engagement zone, 1/4 before it engages and 1/4 after it finishes engaging.  

You do this adjustment while the bike is rolling in gear with the engine at temperature, NEVER when it is sitting still.   I leave the handlebar adjustment lock ring loose and adjust it finger tight until I get it right (takes several days to get it just so) then I lock it down with pliers so it will stay there.

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Re: Update: need clutch help please
Reply #25 - 08/31/13 at 13:30:02
 
I started with the stock 45 and tried all three at one point. The 46 I can't even close the side case. The 45 puts the lever below the lower mark disconnected with a slight push up. The bike will roll freely in gear. The 44 the one I had just tired with the last post is still below the mark. As stated I could adjust it up with tension on the cable it will move under it's own power but slip as soon as I give it any gas. In short none of the rods seem to fix the problem or put it in the correct position on the index. It seems to be agreed on this forum that you pretty much can wear out the disks and this bike has less the 4,000 miles. So as I was trying to say where to you go when the shortest rod is still below the mark and clutch still does not work. The problem started with the stock 45 and left me stranded on the road without being able to get any power to the wheel. It was out 12mm from the plate at the time
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Re: Updated: need clutch help please, still broken
Reply #26 - 08/31/13 at 13:47:02
 
Have you taken your clutch apart?    (not necessary or recommended, btw)

"It seems to be agreed on this forum that you pretty much can wear out the disks and this bike has less the 4,000 miles."   This is not true, so far no one has ever worn their fiber plates to below Clymer's mininum spec thickness (remembering that Clymers table lists the single and multiple plate thicknesses ass-backwards in their little thickness table -- a known Clymers error).

At 4,000 miles your fiber plates aren't even broken in well.
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« Last Edit: 09/01/13 at 10:03:48 by Oldfeller--FSO »  

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Re: Updated: need clutch help please, still broken
Reply #27 - 09/01/13 at 17:40:34
 
Well I would say these plates are pretty much toast. If no one else has done it I guess I'll be the first. The inner most fiber plate looked ok the rest had no pads and much of the material was all over the basket. Old feller you're welcome to these if you want them. It would explain why the oil was so nasty when I drained it among the rest of the clutch problems.

Any one care to speculate as to what could have happened to such a low mileage clutch. If you read the rest of the post you'll she it was owned by a lady who put most of them on then let it sit. I old guy fixed it up and sold it me, was running fine at the time. I does not appear to be beat on, motor runs good, looks really really nice outside. The cam tensioner is at 14mm I guess that could be high for the mileage. Still has original rear tire so no burnouts. Could she have been riding it for a long time, could it have dried out in storage and then came apart when put back into use. I do not think I did anything to it. Feel free to tell me should I get it running and sell it for another?

Any suggestion on brand of clutch to buy, should I get springs too? just scuff and reuse the steel plates? Anything else to replace or do while I'm in there? I left the basket on at this point, is there a need to take it out or just slide the new plates in, I hear some pins and crap come out if I remove it.

Thanks for the help, here are the pics...





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Re: Updated: need clutch help please, toast
Reply #28 - 09/01/13 at 17:49:19
 
Almost forgot one thing, the metal housing the cable is in came out the threaded part that you screw in and out on the handle bar. Is it just held in with tension or do I need to do something with it. If that doesn't make sense I can upload a pic.
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Re: Updated: need clutch help please, toast
Reply #29 - 09/01/13 at 18:15:50
 

Wow, very interesting pics.

Congratulations, you are the first person to figure out how to turn their clutch fiber plates into (literally) ugly black pasty goo.  

Kinda scary, actually.

Can you tell us what you used to do it?  Be nice to know, so we can tell folks in the future what to avoid.    

Did you spray any "stuff" on it as per WD's advice ???   This might not have been the best thing to do to your fiber plates as when I sprayed brake parts cleaner on my clutch accidentally it slipped some for almost a week before settling in again.

Remember, fiber plates are a pressed together composite of cork and hard fibers, held together with hard setting rubber type thermal compounds.  

You might well be able to dissolve the bonding agent if you start spraying large amounts of "stuff" on your clutch pack.


Death by spray can ....   need to add that to the list of clutch killers.


Shocked


Change your oil and oil filter -- you have all sorts of fiber stuff and rubberish stuff floating around in your oil and contaminating/blocking up you oil filter paper element.
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