No, they are not. Just get one at Autozone if you think you need one.

Sidecase bolts only need to be hand tight. Start at one, tighten it down snug. Once you are back to the first one, do them again until snug. Walk away from them at that point.

Lower engine and foot control mounting bolts... throw away the chrome capped stock nuts, replace with all metal self locking versions. As tight as you can get them.

I'll have to reread the swap specs, can't see where a torque wrench is really needed, since you don't need to gut the case like you would for a chain swap or clutch job...  

if you're looking for good and cheap, get the beam style.
clickers are unreliable, especially cheap ones.

I just use a 1/4" drive ratchet and an extension to do mine. Haven't broken one yet or had a leaker yet. And I've had a lot of Japanese bikes.



HOW you grip the ratchet helps feel the clamping effect grow & max out.
A thumb on the head & closing fingers instead of gripping the ratchet handle & applying " whole arm" power. Slow & careful, feel the bolts., busted , stripped stuff is no fun. You can always hit them again if it leaks,,once its messed up, ya got more work.

i went to sears for a 3/8ths beam..