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Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed? (Read 470 times)
j
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Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
06/28/13 at 09:31:39
 
Well i've got 15k on my bike and i've never had the valves adjusted (or checked) so when it started making a rattley sound I assumed it was something to do with that. For a bit I thought about just selling the bike instead of paying the fortune to have it serviced, but who am I kidding, I love it (and I'm not super mechanicky). After some perusing of this site I changed that lay diagnosis to cam chain tension problems because of the location of the sound (lower) and that fact that it was not constant (rattle, then nothing, rattle then nothing).  Took it to a local bike mechanic and he said he though cam chain tension as well, but his price quotes were way different than I expected.  

This is labor only:
180 for valve adjustment, spark plug change and oil change

120 for cam chain replacement

both of these will have parts added.

I would've thought the cam chain change would be quite a bit more work.  Are these reasonable? That valve adjustment seemed high and cam chain change low to me...

Thanks

Josh
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j
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #1 - 06/28/13 at 09:32:44
 
also I'm leaking a tiny bit of oil.  Is this conceivably due to valves needing adjustment?
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #2 - 06/28/13 at 09:47:37
 
I was quoted over $300 for a valve adjustment.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #3 - 06/28/13 at 09:58:10
 
you can do it yourself, buy tools & save $$$$,, & yea,, thats too high.
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OK.... so what's the
speed of dark?

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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #4 - 06/28/13 at 10:02:06
 
Any time you take your bike to a mechanic,.. you're getting screwed...
You're also rarely getting a proper job...
It's the price you pay for letting someone touch your bike that doesn't love it as much as you do...

...(we've seen several blown side cases as a result of backward filter installations,... also stripped threads,.. chipped fins, etc...)...
... all at ridiculously high hourly rates...

Savages are not a priority in shops...  Huh...
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Ludicrous Speed !... ... Huh...
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #5 - 06/28/13 at 10:03:26
 
j wrote on 06/28/13 at 09:32:44:
also I'm leaking a tiny bit of oil.  Is this conceivably due to valves needing adjustment?


No.

I think your questioning the labor costs is correct. Ask the guy straight out what his hourly labor rate is, and if he's ever actually worked on a savage. There is no way an oil change, spark plug change and valve adjustment will take longer than replacing the cam chain.

And read this before you do anything else.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1191167029



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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #6 - 06/28/13 at 10:09:43
 
The $ 180 seems high for what is being done.

The $ 120 is cheap for the extra work required to do the cam chain work....but when added to the $ 120 ....the $ 400 for everything is probably justifiable.... if it is an actual shop with overhead, insurance and their work is guaranteed by them (they stand behind their work).

If the leak is the infamous rubber plug.....that can be fixed during the cam chain repair for almost no extra labor and a $ 10 part cost.

You might not need a cam chain......if you can use the Verslagen tensioner update.  
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« Last Edit: 06/28/13 at 12:07:20 by Dave »  

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Blinky-FSO
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #7 - 06/28/13 at 12:01:19
 
Serowbot wrote on 06/28/13 at 10:02:06:
Any time you take your bike to a mechanic,.. you're getting screwed...
You're also rarely getting a proper job...


I will need to take exception with this broad of a statement. I have known and worked with many mechanics (auto and bike) that take pride in their work. Sure, there are a bunch of scoundrels out there, but don't condemn them all for the actions of some. It is not easy to understand or accept what it takes to make a dollar doing this work. The shop space, lifts, tools, wages, insurance, parts inventory, utilities, add up in a hurry.

Just my two cents from the son and former employee of the owner of a six bay independent auto repair shop from 1966 to 1994.  Cool
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #8 - 06/28/13 at 13:29:31
 
I paid to have the valves adjusted as well as the first carb rebuild. I did so because I wanted to ( hopefully) know what the bike should be like when properly done. I was well pleased with the quality of work. however.. it was very expensive. OVERLY so IMHO... But about on par with what you were quoted.  I strongly suspect these are just "standard labor charges" ie  rebuilt carb $240.. I was told a 4 carb Honda was the same price as my 1 carb savage... $240... really? So there you go.

I still plan on using shops for some things. Never a simple oil change.. or spark plug. The Verslagy.. not so sure I want to tackle that. I am definatly paying someone to put on the new tires..
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #9 - 06/28/13 at 13:45:31
 
I have been doing my own mechanic work for over 50 years. heck with all the money I have saved over the years, I ought to be rich. Huh
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #10 - 06/28/13 at 16:21:32
 
Josh C.

I think the labor charges are backwards here - $120 sounds in the ballpark for the valve adjustment, spark plug & oil change.

$300 is more like it for the cam chain replacement.

PLUS parts.

Here is what I would charge for the same work so you can use this a a reference. My shop labor rate is $49.95 an hour.

To adjust the valves & change the spark plug you need to remove the driver's seat and the gas tank...NOT a big deal.

Valve adjustment, Oil & filter change & new spark plug...1.5 Hrs. labor $74.93 --- Spark plug - $4.95, Oil (Shell Rotella T) & NEW filter - $19.95. Total $99.83

To replace the cam chain you need to drain the oil and remove the clutch cover to get access to the cam drive gear...this needs to be removed to remove the cam chain. To access the camshaft gear the rocker arm cover must be removed. The rocker arm cover cannot be removed with the engine in the frame - there isn't enough clearance under the top frame rail. I won't go into detail here but next time you look at your Savage imagine what has to be removed, unbolted, etc. to get that engine out of the frame.

FYI: there are some folks who say that you can unbolt the engine and lean it out of the frame on the magneto cover side while you remove the rocker arm cover and cam chain. This assumes you have another mechanic who can stand there holding the engine for you while all this work is being done...assuming the magneto cover does not get scratched or otherwise damaged while that engine is leaning out of the frame. Not practical since now you are paying for TWO mechanics at $49.95 per hour each. I have a steel cart with a custom made engine stand to hold the engine firmly and safely so I can work on them.


Parts listing:

NEW cam chain: $119.95
NEW Oil filter and Shell Rotella T Oil: $19.95
Clutch cover gasket $14.95
Misc. solvents, sealers, cleaners etc. $9.95

Total parts: $164.80 - This assumes that your cam chain tensioner, cam chain guides, camshaft, cylinder head cam bearings, camshaft end plug etc. are all in good shape.

Total Labor - 6 hrs @ $49.94 hr - $299.70

Total: $464.50


I use CRC gasket remover...it is Great STUFF, spray some on that  gasket, let it sit for about 10 minutes ans it comes off with little effort. Thicker or badly dried and stuck gaskets may require you do this twice bit still it is easy.

There have been a few nightmare scenarios where I have found valve adjuster cover bolts so chewed up I couldn't get them off and had to drill them out. Of course there have been a few broken bolts and screws as well. I have a collection of hardened Allen head fasteners that when I find chewed up Phillips head screws or bolts I replace them with quality Allen head ones. The most common ones I replace are: Carb flange bolts (Phillips), valve cover adjustment bolts(hex 5 point), decompression lever bracket bolts(Phillips). These almost always get chewed up because they are made of soft CHEAP material and removing them when they are stuck can be a problem, even when using an impact driver to remove stuck Phillips head bolts they sometimes break off.


I hope this helps.






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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #11 - 06/28/13 at 17:13:44
 
Super Thumper wrote on 06/28/13 at 16:21:32:
Josh C.

I think the labor charges are backwards here - $120 sounds in the ballpark for the valve adjustment, spark plug & oil change.

$300 is more like it for the cam chain replacement.

PLUS parts.

Here is what I would charge for the same work so you can use this a a reference. My shop labor rate is $49.95 an hour.

To adjust the valves & change the spark plug you need to remove the driver's seat and the gas tank...NOT a big deal.

Valve adjustment, Oil & filter change & new spark plug...1.5 Hrs. labor $74.93 --- Spark plug - $4.95, Oil (Shell Rotella T) & NEW filter - $19.95. Total $99.83

To replace the cam chain you need to drain the oil and remove the clutch cover to get access to the cam drive gear...this needs to be removed to remove the cam chain. To access the camshaft gear the rocker arm cover must be removed. The rocker arm cover cannot be removed with the engine in the frame - there isn't enough clearance under the top frame rail. I won't go into detail here but next time you look at your Savage imagine what has to be removed, unbolted, etc. to get that engine out of the frame.

FYI: there are some folks who say that you can unbolt the engine and lean it out of the frame on the magneto cover side while you remove the rocker arm cover and cam chain. This assumes you have another mechanic who can stand there holding the engine for you while all this work is being done...assuming the magneto cover does not get scratched or otherwise damaged while that engine is leaning out of the frame. Not practical since now you are paying for TWO mechanics at $49.95 per hour each. I have a steel cart with a custom made engine stand to hold the engine firmly and safely so I can work on them.


Parts listing:

NEW cam chain: $119.95
NEW Oil filter and Shell Rotella T Oil: $19.95
Clutch cover gasket $14.95
Misc. solvents, sealers, cleaners etc. $9.95

Total parts: $164.80 - This assumes that your cam chain tensioner, cam chain guides, camshaft, cylinder head cam bearings, camshaft end plug etc. are all in good shape.

Total Labor - 6 hrs @ $49.94 hr - $299.70

Total: $464.50


I use CRC gasket remover...it is Great STUFF, spray some on that  gasket, let it sit for about 10 minutes ans it comes off with little effort. Thicker or badly dried and stuck gaskets may require you do this twice bit still it is easy.

There have been a few nightmare scenarios where I have found valve adjuster cover bolts so chewed up I couldn't get them off and had to drill them out. Of course there have been a few broken bolts and screws as well. I have a collection of hardened Allen head fasteners that when I find chewed up Phillips head screws or bolts I replace them with quality Allen head ones. The most common ones I replace are: Carb flange bolts (Phillips), valve cover adjustment bolts(hex 5 point), decompression lever bracket bolts(Phillips). These almost always get chewed up because they are made of soft CHEAP material and removing them when they are stuck can be a problem, even when using an impact driver to remove stuck Phillips head bolts they sometimes break off.


I hope this helps.








I recently replaced the cam chain in my wifes S40. Did not remove the engine from the frame. The rocker cover came off just fine, unbolted top gear from cam shaft and slipped the old chain out.
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #12 - 06/28/13 at 19:11:58
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the oil change be part of the Cam Chain replacement since you drain the oil to do it anyway? Undecided  Kiss

Also, do the shops have any sort of flat rate set by the manufacturer like auto shops use?
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #13 - 06/28/13 at 20:29:41
 
My rocker cover won't come off with the engine in the frame ---2001 savage.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Can y'all verify that I'm not getting screwed?
Reply #14 - 06/28/13 at 20:58:15
 
yes it will.. describe exactly what youre doing
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