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Squeaky breaks (Read 154 times)
Ianmh
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Squeaky breaks
06/20/13 at 16:58:57
 
My front break is very squeaky. If I stop fast it's fine, but if I do a slow stop at a light or something it lets out a long squeak. Is this normal/bad. How can I get it to stop doing this. It kind of removes the cool factor when I come up to a light and let out a long squeak.  Grin
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Dave
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #1 - 06/20/13 at 17:15:07
 
Reach into your pocket, pull out some money, and go buy some EBC Organic pads to replace the stock ones.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #2 - 06/20/13 at 20:31:54
 
squeaky brakes
are bad breaks,,

Like in life, sometimes ya just cant get a break,,
or, Gee,, an unlucky break


Or,,
Themstha breaks,,

butchya really need to hit the brakes on callin yer bindinstoppers breaks,,

OOOOkay, Ookay,, Ill give ya a break & knock it off,,
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #3 - 06/20/13 at 21:10:16
 
Tis normal for dirty brakes
wash with soap and water
then dry
then get it hot, should stop for a week or so.
or til it rains
or gets dirty   Grin
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Ianmh
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #4 - 06/20/13 at 21:15:12
 
So squeaky means bad? The bike only has about a 1000 miles on it. It's a 2007, but the previous owner never used it.
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #5 - 06/20/13 at 21:27:03
 
Squeaky =/= bad.

I just changed mine a week ago and they are squeaking.  It depends on a number of different factors, including material of the pad, brake dust, age of pads.

If you google it, there are few methods to try to fix the squeakiness.  It doesn't bother me so I haven't tried any of it.
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #6 - 06/20/13 at 21:31:04
 
Well, they don't seem to be having trouble stopping the bike, I guess that's the most important thing.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #7 - 06/20/13 at 21:37:14
 
NO, squeaky doesnt mean bad.

Bad brakes squeak, but not all squeaky brakes are bad.
I was playing a word game.,,BUT,, apparently it, well,, it didnt work out,,

Thems the breaks,,
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #8 - 06/21/13 at 03:38:01
 
Yeah, my 2009 had squeaky breaks from the beginning.  It was so annoying.  I tried taking it to the car wash and jet spraying the brake pads and rotor, still no luck.  I took it to the shop and they put some kind of coating on it to keep it from vibrating.  It helped a little, but not much.  I finally replaced the front brakes this year, now there is no squeak.  If it drives you up the wall like it did me, just take it into the shop and see what they say, or replace them if you can, they weren't that expensive.  Good luck!  Wink
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #9 - 06/21/13 at 03:40:57
 
...and no, squeaky brakes doesn't necessarily mean bad.  Smiley
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I like to keep things simple..

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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #10 - 06/21/13 at 04:40:21
 
Dave wrote on 06/20/13 at 17:15:07:
Reach into your pocket, pull out some money, and go buy some EBC Organic pads to replace the stock ones.



Yea the stock pads are inherently squeaky, if it bothers you that bad just replace um. As Dave pointed out the EBC organics are good pads and won't drive you nuts with da squeeks  Wink
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #11 - 06/21/13 at 05:52:09
 
Brake squeal is something that can be controlled rather cheaply.

The squealing is from a resonance of high frequency vibrations in the pads/calipers when they contact the rotor.  Because of the job the disc brake has to do, this squeal is common, even though the manufacturers' engineers probably tried hard to prevent it.

There are lots of ways to fix this.  Replacing pads with lots of material left on them is not a sensible option,… a waste of money.

The idea is to change the resonance of the parts that vibrate, thereby pushing the resonance out of the range that creates a squeal.  Here are some ways:

 -- Use the lube typically supplied with replacement pads.  This is a high-heat lube that goes between the pads and the piston that changes the resonance frequency.  Use sparingly.

 -- Use that same lube on all the parts that support the caliper that allow the caliper to move back and forth.  Clean everything really well first, and, again, use sparingly.

 -- I hear folks like Loctite, Permatex, CRC, etc., have sprays/pastes designed to fix squeals, too. Apply to the back of the pad, methinks.

 -- Sometimes the pads, or even the rotors, can acquire a glaze that tends to make a squeal.  Lightly scouring one or both surfaces can help here.  Use 400 grit sandpaper (wet), or rubbing compound, steel wool, chore girl, comet cleanser, etc.  You don’t want any scratches, just a satin finish.

 -- Chamfer the edges of the pads just a little, maybe a 1/16" wide chamfer.
        --- Chamfering the leading edge of the pad is sufficient.    
        --- This alters how the leading edge of the pad tries to "dig in" to the rotor, changing the resonance frequency.
        --- The squeal may come back in a few thousand miles as the pads wear down. Just chamfer it again.

 -- Clean all the surfaces completely, then put a very thin layer of RTV on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston in the caliper.  Also put a very thin layer on the surface of the piston that contacts the pad.  Let it dry for a few hours before reassembly.  
        --- Very thin layer = Put a little on your finger, rub it on the surface, then wipe just about all of it off with a clean finger.  
        --- You don’t want any actual cushion here,…. that will make the brakes feel spongy.  You want only enough to change the resonance of these two mating surfaces,.. just residue, not an actual layer.  
        --- Use something with a high heat capability.  Normal RTV works,.. hi-temp RTV might be better.  It's cheap.

 -- Cut out a piece of coke can metal shaped like the back of the disc brake pad, and insert that piece between the pad and the piston.  That metal is thin but is pretty tough stuff -- I use it for shims when aligning gyrocopter rotors.  Sounds goofy, but it does change/negate the resonances, so it can eliminate the squeal.
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« Last Edit: 06/21/13 at 06:53:22 by Gyrobob »  

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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #12 - 06/21/13 at 06:15:46
 
Gyrobob wrote on 06/21/13 at 05:52:09:
Brake squeal is something that can be controlled rather cheaply.

The squealing is from a resonance of high frequency vibrations in the pads/calipers when they contact the rotor.  Because of the job the disc brake has to do, this squeal is common, even though the manufacturers' engineers probably tried hard to prevent it.

There are several things to try.  Replacing pads with a lot of material left on them is usually not a sensible option,… just a waste of money.

The idea is to change the resonance of the parts that vibrate, therefore pushing the resonance out of the range that tends to create a squeal.  Here are some ways:

 -- Use the lube typically supplied with replacement pads.  This is a high-heat lube that goes between the pads and the piston that changes the resonance frequency.  Use sparingly.
 -- Use that same lube on all the parts that support the caliper that allow the caliper to move back and forth.  Clean everything really well first, and, again, use sparingly.
 -- I hear folks like Loctite, Permatex, CRC, etc., have sprays/pastes designed to fix the squeal, as well,... apply to the back of the pad, methinks.
 -- Sometimes the pads, or even the rotors, can acquire a glaze that tends to make a squeal.  Lightly scouring one or both surfaces can help here.  Use 400 grit sandpaper (wet), or rubbing compound, steel wool, chore girl, comet cleanser, etc.  You don’t want any scratches, just a satin finish.
 -- Chamfer the edges of the pads just a little, maybe a 1/16" wide chamfer.
        --- This alters how the leading edge of the pad tries to "dig in" to the rotor.  
        --- Chamfering the leading edge of the pad is sufficient. This will change the resonance frequency one way or another.
        --- If chamfering the leading edge stops the squeal, it may come back, say, 2,000 miles later when the pads wear down enough to erase the chamfer.  Just chamfer it again.
 -- Clean all the surfaces completely, then put a very thin layer of RTV on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston in the caliper.  Also put a very thin layer on the surface of the piston that contacts the pad.  Let it dry for a few hours.  
        --- By "very thin layer” I mean put a little on your finger, rub it on the surface and then wipe just about all of it off with a clean finger(s).  
        --- You don’t want any actual cushion here,…. that will make the brakes feel spongy.  You want only enough to change the resonance of these two mating surfaces,.. just residue, not an actual layer.  
        --- Make sure you use something with a high heat capability.  Normal RTV will work,.. hi-temp RTV might be better.  It's cheap.
 -- Cut out a piece of coke can metal shaped like the back of the disc brake pad, and insert that piece between the pad and the piston.  That metal is thin but is pretty tough stuff -- I use it for shims when aligning gyrocopter rotors.  Sounds goofy, but it does change/negate the resonances, so it can eliminate the squeal.


This is really good info. Should get a link in the tech section section ,I think.
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #13 - 06/21/13 at 06:32:47
 
oldNslow wrote on 06/21/13 at 06:15:46:
Gyrobob wrote on 06/21/13 at 05:52:09:
Brake squeal is something that can be controlled rather cheaply. The squealing is from a resonance of high frequency....  

..... eliminate the squeal.


This is really good info. Should get a link in the tech section section ,I think.

 Thanks for the comment.  I just tidied it up a bit, editorially speaking.  I'll post it in the tech section.
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Re: Squeaky breaks
Reply #14 - 06/21/13 at 06:35:48
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 06/20/13 at 20:31:54:
squeaky brakes
are bad breaks,,

Like in life, sometimes ya just cant get a break,,
or, Gee,, an unlucky break


Or,,
Themstha breaks,,

butchya really need to hit the brakes on callin yer bindinstoppers breaks,,

OOOOkay, Ookay,, Ill give ya a break & knock it off,,


Worked here JOG. I breaked out in a smile reading your post.  Cool

Good hunting

Not related to the squeak, but be sure and change the brake fluid. It has to be goo by now if it is the original fluid.
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