Had just replaced an properly sealed the infamous cap (because of oil-leaking).
But now the problem is the torque of the bolts, the servicemanual refers to a table, but I can't figure anything out, there are bolts with a '7', but also '10' , 'C', 'b', '6'...
I have the image from the topic which you can print out, glue on a box and push your bolts in, those bolts I don't knoe the torque, someone can help me???

Dave wrote on 04/28/13 at 09:44:08:

Thank you Dave, but is that torque for all the bolts?

Yup,.. most important thing with any bolts that are compressing a gasket or sealant, is that they all get tightened evenly... and tighten them in a crisscross, star pattern sequence, to compress evenly...

I never use a torque wrench, except on head bolts and internal parts,.. I just go by feel, but the evenness and star pattern sequence is most important... JMHO...

"When in doubt, don't strip 'em out"...  (I just made that up)... ...

+1
I usually guided by the principle of tightening the screws criss-cross . and cuttin "feel". no need to pull these bolts very much...just "to the slight resistance"..

When installing the cylinder head cover, the FSM says to tighten the cylinder head bolts "diagonally."  Clymers says the same thing, but adds to tighten the bolts in the middle of the cylinder head cover first.

With this vague guidance in mind, here is the bolt tightening order I've arrived at after removing and installing the cylinder head cover a few times (loosening order (e.g. when removing the cylinder head) will be the reverse of the tightening order):





My methodology was to start with the inner-most bolts and move diagonally as much as possible.  This is just the pattern I have been using.  Your way most likely will be better, please share if so.

I torque these bolts using a 0-200 in-lb beam torque wrench in three stages (snug, half-torque, full-torque).

Note that the bolt associated with position #12 in the above picture represents a special challenge.  This is because said bolt is also used to secure the port decorative chrome head cover.  However, with that cover in place, some of the other head cover bolts would be hard to access.

However, if you don't mind going through a little extra trouble, you can still torque the head cover in a complete fashion - to include bolt #12.

Here is what I used to take the place of the decorative head cover - a stack of washers:





I just place a bunch of washers on the bolt.  This allows me to torque the bolt down properly.

After the gasket sealant used on the head cover is cured, I remove the washers and install the left decorative chrome head cover, taking care to re-torque the subject bolt properly.

IHTH someone!

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 04/28/13 at 11:54:08:


When I posted the torque values.....I probably should have mentioned the need to tighten in a diagonal pattern and do it in intervals.  It is something I would have done while working on a bike......just forgot to say something in my response.

Glad the rest of you are keepting things proper!

Dave

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 04/29/13 at 05:26:26:

Dang......it is hard to see this screen early in the mornng....and even harder to keep my fingers on the right keys!

RobSchneider wrote on 04/29/13 at 01:05:03:


Can't remember....

I DO remember, however, that the camshaft needs to be in a certain position when removing and replacing the head cover.