...

ok, so for some reason i only put 3 #4 washers on there. the big plastic spacer and 4th washer i put away. so with 3 washers and I messed with the mixture screw I think one hole turn out was what felt good, then I adjust the idle and went for a ride. this time I feel a bit more power more equally spread throughout the power band. still pops between gears but i think less, less of a backfire on shutdown, a little less popping and nonsense when using the engine to slow down, but it still seems a little much. so what do I do now?

probably rolling off the throttle and downshifting. lemmy hop on her right now with this in mind.

something doesn't seem right with the washers picture...i don't recall so well but my needle had no needle clip adjustment...that's why I adjusted the setting with washers...it appears as if your needle does have an adjustable jet setting so you should not need the washers (plus the would go under the jet not over it)...

Maybe I'm just forgetting what it actually looks like in there????

alright, I'm starting to get a little heated now this shouldn't be that hard. before my brother sold me the bike he put in a dynojet kit. now if you look at the picture I took that are the instructions it shows the dynojet parts and stock parts. so when Lancer suggested I reinstall the white spacer, I've been installing the white spacer/washers and whatnot with that E-clip on the 4th groove from the top of the needle. So im getting some conflicting information here. so wats the deal? this really should not be that tricky it should be fairly standard on how to get this simple bike to run properly. So,, With all that being said and with the pictures I posted, whats the real next move.

the stock setup does not have the needle clips (i guess older ones did maybe) so to do adjustments on the needle setting you just need to move the clip to different positions...

the higher the clip is on the needle the leaner it gets in the mid-range...

the lower you move it the richer it gets in the mid-range...

spacers are not needed except maybe to stop the spring but if the clip stops the spring then you may not even need that...

edit: you should only use what came stock with the dynojet kit is what I'm trying to say...the adjustable needle is essentially doing what the white spacer mod does...hope that helps...

Depends on you're elevation, what jet's you have on now etc...I think your dynojet said to start on the 4th from the top setting so I'd do that but I don't have a dynojet so it's as good a place as any I guess.
Start the bike and let it idle at a 1000 rpm's...for a few minutes anyway. I actually like my idle set a little higher because I'd rather have more oil getting pumped up into the head than starve the head for oil...low idles will kill these bikes.
Keep track of the turns and then screw your mix screw in (the one on the right side under what used to be the brass plug) very gently until it stops (DON'T crank on it! Be super gentle cuz if it breaks you're screwed) count the number of turns out you were so you have a baseline of when it was actually running.

Then turn it out 2 turns. then go through these steps...

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1309246277

or these...

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1309246277

By far Lancer is the guru on tuning the carbs on these bikes so if you want to read through his tech articles they are great!

You'll get it running right so go slow and don't rush it...
Good Luck!

ha, yeah, it was like 3 years ago when i messed with my carb on this bike so the memory isn't so great...yes, the spacer goes on top...that is correct...
as far as the jets (pilot, main) every carb i've worked on you get access to those from the float bowl...(2 strokes, dirt bikes etc)

i wouldn't mess with them unless you discover that the mixture is way off through your tuning of the mix screw...if you go to the table of contents in the tech section there is a whole mess of good carb tuning info there...
hope that helps!