also i thought i should mention that when tightening the clutch cover bolts, i torqued them to the appropriate setting, and did an extra click just because i'm sketched out about things getting loose. so i overtightened them all evenly i'd say, but is that bad?

PAY ATTENTION PLEASE .... your engine is at risk.

You are talking about "cutting out" a section of your gasket up at the top of the cases.   This is DEATH ....

There is a hollow long thin oil gallery up at the top of the cases that transfers the main oil pressure from the front half of the engine to the middle of the engine (where it goes up into the head to take care of the cam bearings) and to the rear half of the engine where it goes into the transmission shafts and the clutch throw out bearing).  

That skinny assed long oil gallery (that you didn't think needed to be there gasket-wise) is the most critical gasket maintained gallery in the entire engine.

Cutting anything away from your gasket in this area means you do not supply pressurized oil to these two critical oil pathways.   Ditto for not correctly positioning the lower lip of this skinny assed long gasket section on the lower lip of the cast in place gallery.

Park your bike until your new gasket gets in and you can properly replace it if you did any cutting on this gasket area at all (or if you didn't put it in place correctly because you didn't understand it was important).

Correct maximum torque is 100 inch pounds.  Minimum torque starts at 80 inch pounds.  (6 to 8 foot pounds).   Exceeding these numbers can crush the gasket material and warp the cases, cause the leak you are talking about.   If so, tightening more isn't going to fix it (but it can permanently warp your cover half and it will stretch out your bolts until they break so don't overtorque those little skinny bolts).

More and more of us are forgoing the $22 factory gasket and just using a good grade of RTV of a color that matches our cases.  Apply it thinly to both sides and let it cure for 10-15 minutes before tightening just enough to make it just start to ooze out of the gap, then stop and let it cure in place completely for a day before going on up to 60-80 inch pounds.  

Stop torquing if you see the mass of cured RTV in the gap crushing and oozing out of the gap -- you don't want that.   Crushing an RTV gap seal can make a long string of loose RTV floating around inside the oil gallery, which winds up packed tight inside an upper oil passage (bad news)

RTV alone isn't nearly as strong as a gasket, but it doesn't have to be as it is low strength "adhesive" that has already bonded to both sides of the gap.  It really requires very little additional tightening to work best.   Caution, your case surfaces must be really clean (brake parts cleaner clean) for the RTV to make a max strong bond.

Oh looks like I didn't tighten them enough. I thought that torque spec chart said 4-5N-m but 100lbft is more like 135   did I read that chart correctly??

ITEM                 N-m      |      ft-lb
Crankcase
bolts (6mm)      9.0      13.0      |      6.6      9.6
Clutch
cover bolts      8.8      13.0      |      6.5      9.6

is it that hard to look them up?

Torque specs List

found in the link below

100ft/lbs is what car lug nuts get tightened down to. If you think those little bolts can handle that amount of torque, you might need to put the tools down.