apache snow-FSO wrote on 04/23/13 at 06:55:40:


Wups, you done said a dubious thing in a conditional fashion.  

Now you gotta back it up with a set of UOA analysis that shows that T6 shears more (or less) than the other 40 weight oils you compare it against.   Since you like Mobil 1 T4 racing oil, you can compare it to that if you want to (it will be educational for all of us).

Not what "somebody said" but hard data and facts.

RSD as a section deals with facts, not rumors.   When you help newbies, you deal with facts, you don't promote what "somebody said".

And the answer will be interesting, because I really don't already know what the answer is going to be.   I know all oils shear over time, but T6 has been noted for being shear resistant compared to many of what is out there.  Will it win against T4 racing 10w40 Mobil 1?   I dunno.  Let's see.

The only folks I know with big time shear issues with any ?w40 motorcycle use oils that also do oil analysis regularly are the ATV and dirt bike racing guys running way way overstressed engines.

But they do do data .....   some of them shoot a lot of shite but they do post the data to back it up.   How much it means against a Savage engine, I can't say -- not a lot I'd guess as we don't have a way way overstressed engine.

Remember, consider where the folks are coming from when they make oil shear statements.

You can get lots of expert testimony from SAVAGE MOTORCYCLE PEOPLE right here on the list, including test data (Verslagen) if you want testimony that applies to a Savage motorcycle.

My testimony is that all the oils I have used in the Savage do shear some over the one year change period.  But since my bike began to use a smidgen of oil regularly, the adder oil I put in seems to keep up with shear effect pretty much ongoing from change to change.   So shear is a "mild effect" in my eyes ....    

Some (like Justin) use increased oil consumption caused by shear to tell them it is time to change the oil, but Justin uses white jug 15w40 Rotella, not the T6 synthetic so once again, apples to grapefruit for relevance to your statement.

I use T6 in a somewhat abusive fashion, and I can run it for a year between changes (considering adder amount refresh and all).

apache snow-FSO wrote on 04/23/13 at 09:18:24:

+1

Your first one was a BIG V twin site and they were talking turkey on long oil change intervals on their flat six hondas and their big V twin touring cycles.   Good info, mostly.   Since we already know that all oil shears at over 5,000 miles they are actually dicing which oil shears the least in a very long mileage change interval.

Your second reference was manned by folks trying to agree or disagree what a 5w40 oil actually meant (mostly in error).

(hint: it does not mean it was built starting with a 5 weight oil)

Your third source is talking in "texting language" about kawa 250 users, and I really couldn't follow their points very well as I don't speak "text" fluently.

====================

So, to further confuse everybody here is a car forum that speaks in English and explains things a little bit when using BITOG language.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/shell-rotella-t6-5w-40-god-sendi-15...

Still no final answers -- but you will understand the question a bit better for having read all of it.    And it does undo all the viscosity misinformation pushed out by your #2 resource.

No sins to what you did at all actually.   The big V touring guys and the Flat 6 Honda guys have an interesting perspective on T6 vs regular 15w40 dino -- since they are temperature stable (water cooled) they don't see any real advantage to the heat-proof nature of synthetic oils.   This is a valid point of view on a water cooled engine if you are going to change the oil out every 5,000 miles or less.

I think the air cooled Savage can see temperature spikes that might make synthetic worth while on some fairly rare occasions, but I also listened to them long miler boys disliking the 60 ppm of organic moly oil that all makers are putting in their synthetic oils so they can go super long change intervals.  

Both Rotella T6 and the Mobil 1 Vtwin and the Mobil 4T racing all have 60ppm of organic moly oil in them now.    Wish they didn't, but they do.   Reality is ..... the current synthetic oil formulations do have some moly in them.

This is why we tend to tell folks with clutch problems to change out 4 crankcases of 15w40 Rotella white jug before taking apart the clutch to get at the plates.  

Sometimes it fixes the issue, some times they have to take the clutch apart, solvent clean the plates and sand the steels with medium coarse paper and lightly change the surface color of the fiber plates with some fine paper to get all the energy star crap off of the surfaces.

haven't got the exhaust gasket yet. I go to school in SC and live in WV so im gonna wait till my hell week (Finals) are over next week before i order parts