Two small quesitons, because I sifted through the Tech section but couldn't find the two bits of data I need.

1. OIL PRESSURE MAX - MIN
I was reading the thread on fitting an oil pressure gauge http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1271818321
and I realized I do not know the ideal high pressure (i.e. cruising at 3000 rpm on a cold engine)
and the lowest acceptable low pressure (i.e. idling at the lights on a hot engine).

I read 1-3 psi, which is ridiculously low by my standards - literally, oil being randomly splashed on the cam lobes etc.

20 psi would be more like it, with 15-17 psi being the lowest acceptable (= 1 bar)

So, I do not know what the "working, cold engine" oil pressure could be... 50psi ? 80 psi ?

I need to know in order to source the ideal gauge, it's pointless to have a 0-60 gauge if working pressures are in the 60-80psi range.

2. ALTERNATOR RATING
I am aware our alternator is on the itsy-bitsy side, unfortunately every thread I found states "how to upgrade" but none say what is the OEM rating to start with.

100 W ? 10 Amps ? Either measuning unit is acceptable, as long as I know what I have available.

I need to know because I'm happy to switch over to LEDs for run/brake light and front side markers...
BUT
if I am to use fog lights (legal and recommended in Europe) I need to know what I'm starting with and working on.

Thank you all  

I know you can run two stock headlights, but not three.

yup, 5ish when cold, up to 50/60 at full speed.

Ive seen diesel engines idle, COLD, at 3 to 5 PSI.. goose them up & watch the oil pressure bounce on up toward 30 maybe 40. How those things didnt make the noises metal things make when they stick to each other & grind to a halt, I do not know. It would seem to me that 3 PSI isnt enough to keep an oil film between rod cap & crank in an engine that compressing diesel hard enough to detonate,

Oil pressure as supplied by the oil pump does not maintain the oil film in the bearings. In fact, oil is usually supplied to the UNLOADED side of the bearing, not the side under load. Hydrodynamic forces pull the oil into the bearing as the moving shaft "drags" oil into the bearing clearance. All the oil pump has to do is make sure there is enough oil available.

Prior to the advent of the Timken roller bearings used in rail car axles, they used the top half of a bearing. The weight of the car rested on the top of the pillow block, the bottom of which was a half-circle resting on the axle. There was no bottom half of the bearing, as the weight always rested on top. The axle box was filled with enough lubricant to touch the bottom of the axle. As soon as the car moved, lubricant was carried by the axle into the clearance, and it then supported the weight of the car. No pumps at all. Very reliable, as long as there was enough oil.

OK, thanks.

I understand my oil gauge will have to read 0 - 80psi.
I plan to use a mechanical gauge, which I prefer (old school) to the "electric sender" type.

I also plan to fit an oil temp gauge, but that's another story.

As for oil pressure, my diesel truck (which is powered by an industrial-design TD engine, 3000cc 4-pot, 110 hp at 2800rpm) reads 7 bar starting cold, and 1.5 bar idling hot.
That's 100 psi (!!!) and 20psi, respectively.
Yet, NEVER EVER had issues with oil seeping through the gaskets (until last week   but, again, that's another story, the truck's now 7 years old...)

As for the alternator, I see... nobody really knows.
"14.0 - 15.5 dc @ 5000 rpm read @ battery terminals" gives me a voltage reading, but until I have the AMPS coming out of that alternator, all I know is the battery's being charged.

However, assuming "all is on":
- 60W high beam
- 20W stop light
-  5W rear running light
- 20W two indicators (hey, I can only blink on one side at a time! )
-  5W two dash indicators (for high beam and blinkers)
____________
110 W required, PLUS whatever is required from the coil... 10W? = 120W.
Give another 15% margin for safety (nobody would ever dream of running any appiance at 100% peak output, ever) = 20W
and I have an estimated 140W = 10 Amps DC.

I'll work from that.

- 35 W HID headlamp
-   5 W LED stop light
-   1 W LED rear running light
- 10 W two indicators
-   1 W LED dash indicators (new speedo with LED indicators   )
______________
  52-55 W overall...   half of my initial 110 requirement.

Allows for another 50-55 W available for foglights etc.

@Wambr- Is your English getting better or are you drinking less vodka?!  

@Mpescatori- Too bad your not state side, I have both a mini 1 1/2" analog oil pressure and temp gauge