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brakes (Read 142 times)
MShipley
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brakes
02/27/13 at 15:42:08
 
so I have been searching the internet for ways to upgrade the brakes for a little better control and stopping power. Have not had much sucess any ideas? Does anyone make an updated front rotor and caliper. better rear brake pads?
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verslagen1
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Re: brakes
Reply #1 - 02/27/13 at 15:57:12
 
Nothing bolt on.
1 of the RYCA guys did put a gsr? set on... radial caliper and disk.
custom hanger and spider.  That's as close to bolt on as it gets.

next is to put a different front end on.  GS front ends are similar in head tube dimensions and are near bolt on.  the GR tempter has similar geometry as the savage.  All require custom stops to keep from hitting the tank.
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greenmonster
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Re: brakes
Reply #2 - 02/27/13 at 16:17:26
 
One of the things that I've been interested in is a disc for the back. The I find the drum is either on or off. It seems very difficult to ease the back brake.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: brakes
Reply #3 - 02/27/13 at 16:33:48
 
The rear is useless in stock form. Press on it, it locks up. I made it less sensitive by removing about 1/3rd of the surface in contact w/ the drum by grinding grooves across it & tapering the ends in. Now I get feedback in pedal pressure before it locks up. Much better than stock. I think more off the shoes would be better.

Do not breath the dust. Wear a mask, hold your breath, cut a bit & run away,,
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Re: brakes
Reply #4 - 02/27/13 at 16:40:11
 
AME is the only "Bolt On" kit that I know of, and you get a whole new front  end to go with it. Undecided

http://chopperkitusa.com/suzuki-LS650-Savage.htm

Of course, if you were going for the chopper look, and had a couple grand to blow........ Wink
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arteacher
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Re: brakes
Reply #5 - 02/27/13 at 19:10:21
 
SALB wrote on 02/27/13 at 16:40:11:
AME is the only "Bolt On" kit that I know of, and you get a whole new front  end to go with it. Undecided

http://chopperkitusa.com/suzuki-LS650-Savage.htm

Of course, if you were going for the chopper look, and had a couple grand to blow........ Wink

That kit only replaces the tubes, dampers, brake line, and the trees. Everything else, including the brakes, is stock.
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Re: brakes
Reply #6 - 02/27/13 at 19:43:35
 
Admittedly, I don't have any experience with the kit.  How do they do the dual disk option that they advertise on the post? Huh
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arteacher
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Re: brakes
Reply #7 - 02/27/13 at 19:59:19
 
SALB wrote on 02/27/13 at 19:43:35:
Admittedly, I don't have any experience with the kit.  How do they do the dual disk option that they advertise on the post? Huh

They are generic photo's, not LS650 specific.
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white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt
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Re: brakes
Reply #8 - 02/27/13 at 21:21:25
 
SmileyWell shoot.  That's kinda misleading.
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MShipley
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Re: brakes
Reply #9 - 02/28/13 at 07:40:35
 
Justin-o-guy, can you elaberate a little? When you grind this material off do you simply cut grooves perpindicular the the pads all thru out the pad or simply remove about a third of the pad with a grinder? I have backed off the adjustment so I have more pedal travel before it locks but still seems like it locks very quickly.
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: brakes
Reply #10 - 02/28/13 at 09:19:38
 
Pedal height wont make it work better. Set the pedal where you like the feel. ( Ohh,, I TRied putting the pedal low, where the ankle is extended & not strong, still locked up on me, too..)

I used a 4&1/2" grinder &^ cut grooves across the shoe. Not full depth.


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arteacher
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Re: brakes
Reply #11 - 02/28/13 at 14:02:59
 
Another way to go would be to put a spring on the adjuster. You would have to do some experimenting to get the right compression that activated the brake without locking it up. That way, if you wanted to lock it up for some reason, you just apply enough pressure to collapse the spring, and your good to go....er.... stop.
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white '07, Raask exh, Corbin seat, slipstreamer shie, Raptor, Routy's fwd controls, Baron tach, Frisco bars, Isogrips, Headlight and taillight modulators, Dial-a- jet, AME 9 deg chop kit, K&N air flt
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Re: brakes
Reply #12 - 02/28/13 at 14:41:41
 
Have the swept surface of your brake rotor cross drilled and chamfered. Adapt a master and caliper off a dual piston or 4 piston front brake. Nissin or Showa brands only unless you can afford Brembo or similar European parts.

For the rear, no idea.

If I was to swap a bunch of parts and go chain drive, I'd run the front and rear wheels with twin leading shoe drums off a 1968 or so CL450 or a 500 Titan Suzuki parallel twin 2 stroker. Infinitely better than the craptastic oem Savage brakes (in my bike's case... brokes, the front is a joke, has been since new).
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verslagen1
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Re: brakes
Reply #13 - 02/28/13 at 16:28:36
 
MShipley wrote on 02/28/13 at 07:40:35:
Justin-o-guy, can you elaberate a little? When you grind this material off do you simply cut grooves perpindicular the the pads all thru out the pad or simply remove about a third of the pad with a grinder? I have backed off the adjustment so I have more pedal travel before it locks but still seems like it locks very quickly.

I cut the lead part of the shoe at a 45° so that dust is swept to the open end of the hub.  And with a sharp step instead of a taper.  Dust is the enemy and causes squealing, front and back with the stock pads.

Beyound that I keep the pedal low, close to the stop.  It helps cause to lock it up I have to flex my ankle a bit.  I am considering a sharper angle to remove more surface area.  But some less effective brake material would be better.
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