Nick, we don't wear out our clutch plates.  We have 3 lengths of push rods to work through before we have to replace the plates, and so far nobody has ever progressed really to the point they had to replace their plates.

When you get done, please PM me for my address so you can donate your old fiber plates to my fiber plate collection -- I keep all the fiber plates that are replaced by folks like you (and your springs and whatever else clutchlike that you have left over when you are done fixing up your bike).

I am easily amused and it is a hobby.   I keep all the used but still good clutch parts generated here on the list.

Or you can keep them, in case of some vague disaster that happens out in the future.

But PLEASE DO order a full set of 3 push rods of all the different lengths.

Versy, you threatened to get some HSS dowel pins in the lengths we needed for pushrods -- did you ever do it?

Do we have the lengths needed?  

Research in Tech says 1.75", 1.79", and 1.83" inches are the stock rod lengths.  I can't verify this because they are only listed in the loose leaf Suzuki Factory Service Book that only a few of us have.

I have hand built a couple of rods for my bike that were longer than the stock range out of M2 round lathe bit stock, so I know some of us could use some rods that are longer than the stock range.

My fiddlin' about with rods over the years has taught me that hardened steel dowel pins are NOT heat resistant hard nor tough enough for the task (they get heat softened at the eccentric due to simple friction and rapidly wear away).  

High Speed Steel is a minimum durability and if you want full tough rods go up to M2 lathe tool bit steel.   The HSS and M2 can get up to dull red before beginning to lose hardness -- and that doesn't really ever happen as the friction is temporary and it gets quenched back to engine ambient by the oil flying around every where before it ever gets red hot.

Case hardened normal steel dowel pins CAN get friction heated up to a light purple draw, and being drawn multiple multiple multiple times over the months they eventually soften to the point rapid wear can take place inside the eccentric cup.  And the rod gets short and the chrome lever rises up accordingly.

I haven't had it apart to check for wear yet.
full hard tool steel guide pins, just grind them to length.

Sounds like me..lots on the go....I'll let you know if nothing shows up. Email can be slow like that unfortunately.


edit:  Nope havn't got anything yet, not in the spam folder either.  What would the total be for a verslavvy tensioner shipped to ontario, canada? I can send you the money once I know the e-mail for your paypal.

thanks!

I'm usually pretty careful with these things, but I found a little piece on the shop floor from removing the clutch cover, its a small grey cylinder and i am not sure if it came off the bike or just random floor junk from a previous project. Anyone familiar with the part or where it might go?

also, regrding the clutch...i feel mine is at the end of its adjustment, it seems it starts to slip by just bearly pulling on the lever, im sure it will need attention this season.  I assume a longer push-rod is what I need and not a shorter one, correct?

I learned to sweep up before any new job. Anything that hits the floor is more easily found. Anything on the floor Must be from this job.

An old towel on the floor under the job grabs parts that fall so they dont run away. I do that especially on things Im unsure of "What kinda tiny bits & pieces are IN there".

I learned these things after years of Not preparing & suffering painful consequences.

I put it in with about 15-20 ftlbs, haven't had them come out yet.  

think they are originally put in with locktite.