Very nice job on that exhaust stud insert.  How did you find the procedure?  Do you feel it was an easy mod?  Your finished product looks great.

How do you plan to adjust the size of your orifice?  What instrumentation will you be using to monitor oil pressure and temp?  I have found that the temperature of the oil really influences pressure.  Just a small change in temperature makes a big difference in oil pressure.  Since I have gages reading cylinder head oil pressure at the most remote bearing and oil temperature at the filter inlet, and those instruments are on my instrument cluster, it's pretty easy to set up the system.  Will you be able to monitor those parameters while you are riding your bike?

Good call on that cylinder stud.  The corrosion was forming right on the critical fillet at the base of the stud.  That just happens to be the longest stud too.  I suspect the corrosion could get out of hand pretty fast and you would end up with a stud that was stuck in the aluminum case BIG time.  Then you would be forced to remove the engine to get the head off.  

One of your copper washers is really galled up badly.  Do you happen to know what location it was in.  Could it possible be related to the leak you are chasing?

I did a little test on the old head gasket - I wanted to see if using the Motoseal Gasket Maker would work to seal the layers of the head gasket and help to stop the oil from seeping between the layers.
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/specialty-gasket-ma...

I applied a very thin "smear" of the Motoseal using a Q tip.  I limited the area to the area directly around the oil port.  I applied it to the inside of the top and bottom ply - and I used the raised rib in the head gasket top and bottom plies as a guide for where to apply it.  I then put a business card on both sides and clamped it tightly in my vice.

After 2 days I removed it and use my calipers to see if the head gasket had gained any thickness from the Motoseal.

Thankfully there was no measurable difference in the thickness.  It measured 0.022" thick at multiple places around the head gasket - including where I had applied the sealer.

I am waiting for the piston to come back from Line2Line - they are applying a skirt coating that will leave only 0.001" of clearance between the piston skirt and cylinder.  The minimum clearance required by Wiseco was 0.0025" for this piston - but my stock cylinder was worn and had more clearance than I would like.  This coating will wear away in places that are too tight, and stay put in places that are not overly tight.  The break in process involves starting and running the engine for very short intervals at first - then each run after that should be increased in duration and power levels until you work up to the full break in.

I have decided to put the stock oil pump gears in place for the initial run, and also to plumb in a temporary pressure gauge at the cylinder head.  Once I get to know the running pressures and am satisfied I don't have any oil leaks - I can put the modified gears in place and adjust the bleed orifice size and get the desired pressure.

I removed the plug in the oil galley on the left side and tapped it for 1/16"NPT.  I have ordered the fittings I need to attach a pressure gauge.