Fender is shaping up nicely. 33 ford tailight is on it's way. Still looking for a sportster tank for around 50 bucks, and haven't even begun to figure out where  going to have the bungs for the seat welded. So what to do while waiting for parts? I'm going to start by working on electrical. I need to make the wires that go to the left handlebar longer, any suggestions or tips before I take this on? I'm thinking splice wires close to headlight, add a few inches and replace plastic covering. Sound about right or is there an easier way? Oh here's the new trailer fender on the bike, I'm looking for a metal shop to make me better strong brackets then the ones I have for the finished project.

The length of wire won't make a difference if you run your wires properly. The wires should run vertically - following the axis of the neck - so they simply twist slightly as you turn your bars. If your wires are pulling in and out as you turn your bars, you did it wrong.

Jahoo wrote on 01/08/13 at 21:00:59:

I'm also running 10" mini apes and had no issues with the stock wiring at all.  There was plenty of slack in the harness under the tank to allow you to pull it forward enough to give you the slack you need, But I also have a 96' that came with the buckhorn bars which have longer cables and wiring then the bikes that came with the drag bars.  Now the Throttle and Clutch cables were a different story,  Yes with some creative re-routing they worked but didn't look to good, so I went with some custom Barnett cables ordered through our friendly Barnett dealer here on the forums.  

R.F.

What's your plan with the speedo since your putting a sporty tank on it? I'm assuming the hole where the cable goes into the motor has to be plugged unless u r relocating it! I ask because my new tank will be here this week and I'm not sure what I'm gonna  do yet

I was going to mount the speedo on the left side of the bike, maybe make a bracket off the front tank mount. I haven't pulled any slack from under the tank yet, I thought what was keeping it from reaching the 10s is the split to the head light though.
I spent today working on the clutch cable. Instead of spending a ton of money I'm using whatever I got so I'm trying to fab these universal clutch and brake cables to the bike.my clutch cable is frayed and dangerous so that needed to be replaced anyway. I spent all day searching for solder on cable ends (spoiler alert: I never found them). Pep boys has the screw on ones but they don't fit the clutch handle. I'm going to have to find some off the web some where. If we have someone who makes these I'd love to talk to them. I want to know where to buy the random end pieces like the clutch adjuster and the adjuster for the front brake. I'm going to do my own cables for my sportster if this works out, but don't want to search as hard as I have for misc cable pieces.

that def looks good is that the stock speedo on there? Ive never seen it out of the tank, I was just gonna go without one, ps picked up my sporty tank on craigslist for 60 shipped to me from salisbury  u must have miised that one sorry!!

Dual throw toggle switches in water proof rubber boots. On-off-on. One for headlight, one for turn signals. Mount them to the top triple tree directly or off a little sheet metal bracket clamped via the riser caps. Gets rid of the ugly as sin switch boxes, no wire stretch.

Clutch cable for 10" mini apes... VN700/750/800A Kawasaki. triple adjustable at perch, mid run and at trans mount. $26 Running 15 inchers get a +4 cable.

Misc bits? K&L Supply, Cycle Gear, most indie shops.

my bars are 13", all i did was cut the zip ties that hold the wires to the back bone re-routed them and i have full turn both ways. mayswell take your tank off if you plan on putting a new one on haha.