I was taught P=IxE. I am looking at a set of heated overgrips that have a 1.6 amp draw. Later in the description it mentions 22 watts. Plugging these numbers in to my equation, I get a 13.75 volts for the missing variable. That sounds high. I read in the tech section that we can add approximately 20 watts max to the Savage. 20 amps divided by 12 volts equals 1.67 amps. If I use the 13.5 figure for volts, I end up with 1.48 amps. So, what voltage figure should I use in my calculations?

Systems with 12 volt batteries run at about 14volts.  If you use too many accessories, and the voltage drops below 14 volts, you have maxed out the alternator, and your battery may start running down if the voltage actually gets close to 12.  On a Savage, if you run an electric vest and grips, you are probably going to come close to maxing out the alternator.

Use 14 volts.

The Savage ain't designed as accessory driver... So, it's charge system is minimal...
That said,.. there must be a little leeway...
Now,.. it depends on how you ride....  
If you tend to do 2 to 5 mile errands,.. that may not even be able to charge yer' battery...
If you tend to do 25 mile plus rides, regularly,.. even a little spare wattage will keep your battery up...

Heated grips don't pull much,.. (jackets and pants are another matter)...
So,.. you're probably okay...
If it were me,... to be on the safe side, I'd disconnect the front running lights in the front turn signals...

(I don't understand the logic of those things anyway,.. you've already got a headlight up there giving 50+ watts of light)... (the rear, on the other hand, has only one measly 1157 running light giving less than 10 watts. trapped inside a red shell)...
A more expensive option,.. is to substitute led's in the running light/signal positions... (you'll need a $10 dollar electric flash module to make them blink right)...

Bottom line... grips don't pull too much,... you can always try them... and if your battery can't maintain a charge,.. reduce consumption with killing front running lights, or swapping to led's...
If you're a short errand rider,.. swap now...

2 cents...  take it, or leave it... ...

Greg wrote on 12/14/12 at 05:16:10:


Another idea that I am going to use, since I use a Gerbing jacket on the rides around here this time of year (it's 33 degrees outside at the moment), is to not use the headlight during the day, and use LED running lights.  
-- I will eventually have amber running lights facing forward, with some really small but astonishingly bright white LEDs bonded to the reflector inside the headlight.  
-- This makes it look like the headlight is on (sorta) during the day, plus the amber LEDs have the running light visibility.  
-- The whole show uses up only about 3 watts.  (1/4 of an amp)

I don't ride at night unless I really do have to get somewhere on this bike.  My eventual solution for that is to use a reduced wattage H4 bulb (about 30 watts) but installed in a train light,.. the huge bucket from a GS1150.  The bulb is dimmer, true, but glowing in that monstrous reflector, more than makes up for the lower wattage.

So,... the end result is that I will be brighter day AND night, and use less wattage,.. leaving more output from our poor little alternator for the heated jacket, and grips or gloves.

thumperclone wrote on 12/14/12 at 07:40:47:

This is good information. Since the overgrips use 22 watts and I have approx 20 watts I can add, removing the running lights frees up enough for me to accomplish the task.

Serowbot wrote on 12/14/12 at 08:48:09:

Thanks!