Dave....and David.....and DavidOfMa?

This could get confusing!

"From now On.....I want you all to call me Loretta!"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dgp9MPLEAqA

Modification of lever went OK just had to grind out the main body a little - the saddle fitted 1" no problem. Think I will use a spare clutch cable as it has the adjustment needed to set this up properly. Shortening the cable will not be a problem I've done this a few times. Picture of my RYCA - just finsihed !

I have been toying around with the handlebar mounted thought.  At first I thought the dirt bike "HOT START" levers could be adapted.  This is not turning out real promising as the controls on the Savage are really big and get in the way.  If you mount the Hot Start lever on the back side of the front brake lever clamp - your thumb is already busy with the starter button - and the large throttle and electrical control box gets in the way of the thumb button and it does not have room to move.  The Clutch lever clamping system uses a different type of clamp and the common Hot Start levers would not bolt to the backside of the clamp.  Mounting any sort of manual lever will be difficult to work with the clutch safety switch still activated - as you need your right hand to run the starter switch and your left hand to pull in the clutch.....which leaves no extra hands?

My next attempt is going to be to try this sort of Hot Start lever.  It mounts by installing a long clutch lever bolt with a spacer beneath the lever.  It will be necessary to make a holder for the cable.  I believe this one may work as you can pull the lever with your index finger while you pull in the clutch lever with your other fingers.....Maybe!

That's a cute little lever,... for functionality,.. I'd prefer a left thumb actuation...

I have almost finished the conversion.
Here are a couple of tips to converting a RYCA to handlebar decompression.
A Savage clutch cable is ideal. The hand lever nipple fits the decompressor arm perfectly. may need to open up ever so slightly for the thicker cable.
Using a dremel blade cut off the nipple at the clutch lever end.
The cable outer needs to be removed from the curved tube. Apply a small torch and melt the plastic covering - comes out easy.
I used a 3/16 bracket from your equivalent of Home Depot - you will need a 2" bracket about 4" x 2"
Shorten the 2" length to about 5/8" - this end will mount on the 2 6mm horn mounting holes. These are at 30mm centres.
The 4" leg of the bracket needs to be modified - shortened and twisted to align the cable with decompressor arm
Will send picture if you need it.
Drill a 3/8" hole for the 8mm clutch cable threaded adjuster and join the hole to the edge with a 2.5mm slot for the 2mm cable. This makes fitting the cable easier.
The cable outer should be about 2.5 feet long - It MUST come from the left and cross over behind the headlight to the RIGHT so that the bend into the handlebar decompressor lever is OK.
I made a guide for my decompressor lever to the bowden cable outer using a 6mm x 20mm  allen bolt. Drilled through 2.5mm and then drilled the head 6mm.
Making a new nipple on the cable at the lever end was done by getting a 1" block of wood and drilling a 2.5mm hole through about 1/2" from the edge. You will need a small butane torch for this next step
Then drilled 1/2" deep a 6mm hole. Push cable through and then open up using small pliers to make a little brush. Flux the brush and pull into the 6mm hole in the wood. Put solder into the hole and melt with the torch. Wait until cool Push soldered brush out of the hole and cool with water. Cut away the wood and you should have a very strong nipple - may need to be fiiled to suit.